World Heritage Island in a day: our Yakushima adventure

Have you seen the animated film “Princess Mononoke“? It’s one of the coolest animated films ever. For me, the best part about the film was the enchanted forest setting, where the magical forest creatures come alive. My Japanese friends told me that the forest in Princess Mononoke was inspired by Yakushima island. The island was declared a World Heritage Site because of their century-old cedar trees and rich flora and fauna. Since then, it has been my dream to go to Yakushima.

(Preview)

M and I have been planning our Yakushima trip for more than a year. I have already prepared a detailed itinerary for a 4-day trip, complete with bus schedules, hostel rates and food budget (Yes, I’m crazy like that). Unfortunately, work, classes, and other trips got in the way and we never had that 4-day opportunity. However, when our friend visited Kyushu we just had to make the trip happen, four days or no. After all that planning, we ended up with just one day in Yakushima (less than 24 hours in fact), but it was to be one of the most memorable days ever.

Getting there is half the battle

Yakushima is an island at the southernmost part of Kyushu Island, which is southernmost of Japan’s four main islands. In short, it’s far and pretty hard to get to. From Hakata station in Fukuoka, we took the Nishitetsu highway bus to Kagoshima-chuo Station (15,000 JPY for a 4-ticket bus discount; that’s only 3,750 JPY for a 4 hour-15 minute bus ride, as opposed to the 9,660 JPY for the 95-minute shinkansen ride).

From Kagoshima, we originally planned to take the overnight Hibiscus ferry to Yakushima. The Hibiscus ferry was the cheapest option, not to mention we get to save on accommodations. *Check the Yakumonkey website for transportation options, and a lot of other Yakushima travel tips* One catch of the cheap ferry is that its embarkation point, Taniyama Port, is not located at Kagoshima city center like the other ferry services, but an hour’s drive farther southwest. Due to a series of unforeseen circumstances (weekend classes, horrible weather, and bad traffic), we were not able to catch the ferry in time. Lesson learned: bus schedules are not as reliable as the train’s. Also, weekend classes are real spoilers!

Kagoshima, our gateway to Yakushima Island

So we had no choice but to stay the night in Kagoshima. We searched online for the most convenient hostel and found Green Guest House, which is right across the Kagoshima Port going to Yakushima. That night, there was a mini concert by Guitar Panda (yes, he plays the guitar in a Panda costume, obviously!) so we hung out in the lobby for a while and tried the Kagoshima-exclusive Sakurajima Magma Soda. It was essentially a carbonated drink with chili; it’s non-alcoholic, but drink moderately still! I heard some passing warning about stomach aches…

Magma Soda!

Anyway, the next day we made sure we were at the Kagoshima port early to buy our tickets for the first trip of the toppy jetfoil to Yakushima. *We didn’t need to reserve in advance since it was the  lean season, but for peak seasons make sure you book ahead of time.*

It was strange having to strap ourselves in our seats the whole trip (safety requirement), but it was a quick and smooth-sailing two hours.

Trek around Shiratani Unsuikyo: the Mononoke Forest experience

Finally, we arrived in Yakushima! We walked to  Miyanoura Port Youth Hostel, which was really near the port. After checking in, we met with our two friends (Yuta and Jas) already staying at the hostel and rented a car for the group (We asked the hostel front desk for assistance with the car rental, which cost 4,500 JPY for the whole day).

The ride up to Shiratani Unsuikyo was all twists and turns on the narrow road, but the view was breathtaking!

We had to stop for photos, of course.

We finally reached the entrance of Shiratani Unsuikyo Forest Ravine by noon, and we parked our car and paid the 300 JPY entrance fee. In turn, we received a pamphlet with a rough map of the area.

Entrance to the Shiratani Unsuikyo

Given the time constraints, we decided to stick to the Genseirin Primeval Forest Hiking Trail, so we can have a feel of the Mononoke Forest, and pass by several cedar trees along the way.

Look Ma, I can fit under the roots!

And feel it we did, although I’m quite stumped trying to translate the feeling into words.

As we treaded along the path that was full of roots and fallen leaves, we passed by these big and proud cedar trees that are ancient beyond belief, standing tall in silent dignity.

Be careful where you tread…

Inside a hollow cedar tree

They’re really tall!

And then there’s the ubiquitous moss that blankets the landscape, covering the tree trunks and the big boulders.

The different shades of green give off a tranquil vibe, especially when combined with the pristine river water and the calming sound of the stream.

I guess all of that gives the forest its enchanted feeling (and my suddenly poetic descriptions!).

We also enjoyed observing the deer walking about without a care for us human intruders.

One of the many deer in the forest, calmly chewing his food while having a stare-off with us.

 We had a late lunch at the Shiratani hut, where there’s a water source and some benches for sitting. We heated water for some hot tea and ate our rice balls, but pretty soon the cold winter temperature was catching up with us so we headed back after a while.

Heating water for tea (photo by Jasmine)

We left Shiratani Unsuikyo at about 3:00 pm, still in awe of the cedar trees and the Mononoke forest, and quite happy with our little trek.

As an added bonus, we met the Yakushima monkeys on the road!

 

Seaside hotspring means getting naked with the ojiichans

We drove for about two hours to the southern end of the island to take a dip at their seaside onsen (hot spring). After the cold hike, we were really looking forward to a nice dip at the natural hot spring, and by the sea no less! The hot spring is open to all: men and women, young and old. I haven’t really experienced an onsen overlooking the sea, much less an onsen for both genders. I was not sure what to expect.

Hirauchi Seaside Onsen (if you look closely, you’ll see the bathers) (photo by Jasmine, because I left my camera in the car)

When we arrived there, everybody was just… naked. We also took off our clothes and left it by the rocks, but in the end I wasn’t that brave. Jas and I brought towels and after much deliberation, we didn’t take it off when we went in the water. Getting naked with your friends of the opposite gender was awkward for us girls; but the guys didn’t mind, they seem to be enjoying it, even! I guess I was weirded out by the old Japanese men (casually called ojiichan in Japanese, which literally means Grandpa) casually lounging by the onsen pools and offhandedly looking about. I’m sure they meant no malice, but for somebody not used to stripping in front of other people it was just too uncomfortable with the ojiichans watching.

However, awkwardness notwithstanding, the seaside onsen was heavenly! The hot spring water relaxed our tired muscles. Watching the sunset while lounging in the seaside bath was an unexpected bonus as well. The place and the experience is definitely memorable!

(photo by Jasmine)

(photo by Jasmine)

Barbeque time!

We rushed back to Miyanoura to return our rented car before the shop closed at 6:00 pm. Our friend Yuta really did a fine job getting back into town in less than an hour (don’t tell the Yakushima traffic police!). Afterwards the rental car staff brought us back to our hostel, where we finished the day with a barbeque party. Good times!

 

‘Til next time, Yakushima!

Early the next day, M and I ourselves out of bed to catch the Hibiscus Ferry back to Kagoshima. Our time in Yakushima was really short and sweet. For sure, we’ll be back to scale the island’s highest peak, and use that 4-day itinerary I’ve been planning since forever. See you again, Yakushima!

 

P.S. Somebody asked me to post my original four-day itinerary, and I’m posting it here so other people can look at it as well. Below is the itinerary with expense calculation (all figures in Japanese yen). Note that trekking times are estimated for our speed (you might be faster or slower), so take caution in following the trek schedule. Bus times are based on the 2013 bus schedule. Train times are for weekday schedules.

Day 1 FUKUOKA to KAGOSHIMA
07:00 Bus from Hakata Bus Center (3750 JPY w/4-ticket discount)
11:54 Arrival in Kagoshima-chuo station, lunch (500-1000)
12:30 Tram to Sakurajima ferry terminal (160)
12:45 Ferry to Sakurajima (150); Go around Sakurajima
15:00 Ferry to Kagoshima (150); Tram to Kagoshimachuo (160)
15:37/16:01 Train from Kagochimachuo to Sakanoue station (280)
15:57/16:21 Arrival in Sakanoue station; Taxi or walk to Taniyama port (should be at the port before 5pm, so better be early; taxis are not very frequent) (if taking taxi: 1500 JPY)
17:00 buy tickets for Hibiscus ferry (3500)
18:00 Ferry departure (overnight)

Day 2 YAKUSHIMA TREK
07:00 Arrival at Miyanoura port; breakfast (500-1000)
08:00/08:26 Bus from Miyanoura to Shiratani Unsuikyo (530)
08:30/08:56 Arrival at Shiratani Unsuikyo (300 entrance fee)
09:00 Start trek
10:30 Shiratani Hut
12:00 Kusugawa Junction
13:10 Okabu Trailhead; Lunch
13:30 Resume trek
14:10 Wilson stump
15:20 Jomon sugi
16:45 Shin-takatsuka hut, stay overnight

Day 3 SUMMIT and DESCENT
05:00 Breakfast (500-1000)
06:00 Start trek
09:00 Nagatadake junction
09:30 Miyanoura dake summit
11:45 Hana no ego; lunch
12:15 Resume trek
13:20 Yodogawa hut
14:45 Kigensugi
14:58/15:53/16:21 Bus from Kigensugi (940)
15:08/17:20/17:22 Gochomae arrival; onsen at Green Hotel (1000)
17:37/17:52/18:21 Bus from Gochomae to Miyanoura (780)
Stay at Kairakuen camping place mini-bungalow (1200)
(http://www.e-yakushima.jp/location.html)

Day 4 YAKUSHIMA to FUKUOKA
06:30 Breakfast
07:00 Taxi to Miyanoura port (3 km away, ask owner for transport options) (1500 or less by taxi)
07:20 Buy ticket for Hibiscus ferry (3200)
14:40 Arrival at Taniyama port; walk to Sakanoue station (usually no taxis unless you call for one)
15:29/16:05 Train from Sakanoue to Kagoshima-chuo station (280)
15:49/16:27 Arrival at Kagoshima-chuo Station
16:40/17:10/17:40 Bus from Kagoshima-chuo (3750 JPY w/4-ticket discount)
20:46/21:16/21:46 Arrival at Hakata Station

What the hell(s): the Beppu Jigoku tour

The town of Beppu in Oita Prefecture, Japan is blessed with piping hot geothermal waters. Beppu is frequented by tourists not only for its hot springs (onsen) but also for its “hells” (jigoku). Hot spring resorts/public baths abound all over Japan, but the jigoku is unique to Beppu. All eight hells could be toured in half a day, but we stayed overnight so we could also try Beppu’s famous onsens.

Getting there

Beppu can be accessed by train or bus from Fukuoka, which is the nearest major airport. You can also get a train from Tokyo or Kyoto, but chances are you would also have to stop by Hakata station in Fukuoka.

In our case, we chose to travel using the Nishitetsu Bus, since it’s the cheapest way to get to Beppu from Fukuoka. We used the Toyonokuni Kippu, which is a discounted set of four tickets for a certain route. A one-way bus ticket normally costs 3,100 JPY but with the toyonokuni, one ticket is only 2,000 JPY each (provided you have a companion). The travel time takes 2 hrs 40 mins, as opposed to the bullet train’s 1 hr 40 mins (but costs 5,600 JPY). We bought tickets at the Hakata Bus Terminal a few minutes before departure (no reservations for this route) and got off at the Beppu Kitahama bus stop. We then walked for about 10 minutes to the Beppu train station.

Beppu Station

Touring the hells

At the train station, we proceeded to the Tourist Information Center where we got the following: One-day bus pass (900 JPY), Jigoku tour information sheet, bus timetable, and discount coupon for the hells and other Beppu tourist attractions. The nice lady at the counter explained everything that we needed to know about visiting the hells.

Armed with our sheets of paper, we waited for the next scheduled bus departure for the Kannawa area, where the first six hells are located. Buses depart every 15-30 minutes. We decided to buy the ticket booklet for all eight hells, since it felt like a bargain. We only paid 1,800 JPY for the booklet (original price was 2,000 JPY but we got the discount coupon from the information office) as opposed to 400 JPY entrance fee for each hell. We came for a tour of the hells, so we might as well just visit all of them, right? Here I’ll briefly describe all eight hells and give my verdict at the end whether all eight were visit-worthy.

They were giving out free fans with Beppu Jigoku mascots outside the hells.

Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell)

We were greeted by nice lotus flowers on the entrance, then we had to pass by the big souvenir shop to get to the pond. This hell was named as the Sea Hell because of the blue color of the water (which is of course not its natural color). There was a small shrine at one side of the pond, and a manicured garden on the opposite end.

Lotus and dragonflies greeted us just after the entrance

The Sea Hell

Cooking boiled eggs at the pond

The large compound also includes a greenhouse that gets it heat from the hot spring. I felt a little disoriented at first, seeing banana trees and wild orchids in Japan, or maybe it was just the unbearable heat of the summer plus the heat inside the greenhouse that got to me, but after a while I got to appreciate the novelty of growing tropical plants by utilizing the hot spring.

Sign for the greenhouse. Go figure.

Inside the greenhouse

Lotus inside the greenhouse

Just outside the Umi Jigoku entrance, there were several stores selling pudding that was cooked from the hot spring steam. Of course we tried this specialty product, but we were a little disappointed by the bitter aftertaste of the caramelized sugar. Maybe we just chose the wrong store and got unlucky.

Pudding steamed using the hot spring

Oniishibozu Jigoku (Monk’s Shaved Head Hell)

The bubbling mud pools were interesting, and a bit hypnotizing if you stare too long at the perfectly round bubbles coming up the surface. I was trying to imagine monks being borne headfirst from the bubbles as the name suggests, but my scientific mind could only conjure the image of the upper half of Saturn complete with rings. There were several pools showcasing these bubbles, but the real reward was the foot bath near the entrance.

The Monk’s Shaved Head Hell

Yama Jigoku (Mountain Hell)

It’s so named because there was supposedly a mountain of mud here, but all I can see were a smoking pile of rocks. There were some animals that supposedly added to the attraction, but they didn’t look too happy to be there.

The Mountain Hell

The hippo’s mouth appears to be permanently open, just waiting for the tourists to throw carrots into it.

Kamado Jigoku (Cooking Pot Hell)

This hell features a pond that looks like the Sea Hell (although not quite as well-designed), a foot bath (which we skipped because the water looked murky plus it was packed with tourists), and a demon figure that is standing in a cooking pot (hence the name). One interesting point for me was that they tried to explain the geologic origin of silica sinter (yeah yeah, I know this is not interesting for most of you).

The pond in the Cooking Pot Hell

The foot bath full of tourists

The demon standing in the “cooking pot”

Display explaining the origin of silica sinter

Oniyama Jigoku (Demon Mountain Hell)

One word: crocodile. There were a lot of Malaysian crocodiles enjoying the warm waters of this hell (according to the information on the billboard). Aside from the crocs, the pond in this place is spurting water due to the strong steam.

One of the many crocodiles in the Demon Mountain Hell

Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell)

This hell is named after the creamy white color of the water, but we were first directed to some aquariums with piranhas and other exotic fishes. I can’t say I enjoyed looking at the fishes in the water tanks, but at least I can say I’ve seen a lot of piranhas at one time.  The pond itself is milky green in color, with white hot steam coming out.

Piranhas in the aquarium

Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell)

To get to this place we had to take the bus (about 10 minutes), since it’s in a different area than the first six hells. Before we got to the pond, we had to pass by the big souvenir shop that serves as the entrance. To me, the pond’s color is not really blood-red but orange-brown. The color comes from the clayey mud, which is being sold there as treatment for the skin.

The Blood Pond Hell

Tatsumaki Jigoku (Spout Hell)

This last attraction is just beside the Blood Pond Hell. It’s a geyser that erupts every 40 minutes (which they are very proud of, since it’s one of the few geysers in the world that erupt hourly). One of the staff will tell you upon entering what time the next eruption will be, so that you can decide to visit the Blood Pond Hell first if the geyser just erupted. I haven’t seen a geyser erupt before so it was a new experience for me. Sadly (at least for me), they put up a stone ceiling above the geyser to prevent it from reaching its full height so that they can build the souvenir shop just beside it and so that people can go as near as they can to the Spout Hell.

The Spout Hell

So there you have them, all eight hells of Beppu. If you want to ask me if all eight hells were visit-worthy, I would say I would only pick the Sea Hell, the Monk’s Shaved Head Hell, and the Spout Hell if I was pressed for time and budget. Also, because we visited during the height of summer, we didn’t really appreciate the warmth of the foot baths and hot springs because of the terrible heat and humidity. But I must say I did not regret visiting all of them, since I had had the complete “hell” experience, both the good and not so nice.

It was actually fun completing the stamp rally (putting a stamp on each of the hells) which supposedly will give us some souvenir as reward if we submit the completed sheet of paper with our address, although I have yet to receive the prize. If you also want to visit all of them, there’s no stopping you from completing all those stamps!

Completing the stamps from all eight hells

Sidetrip: Taking a bath at the onsen

Aside from the hells, Beppu is not Beppu if not for the onsen (hot spring baths). Even though it was the peak of summer, we couldn’t resist taking a dip in the popular baths of Beppu. We tried two of the most popular onsen, which could not have been more different from each other: the large and modern Aqua Garden and Tanayu Bath at the Suginoi Hotel, and the small and traditional Takegawara Onsen.

Suginoi Hotel

This hotel is one of the biggest in Beppu, and the Aqua Garden and Tanayu hot spring bath is open to non-guests for an entrance fee of 1,500 yen. The entrance fee included toiletries, including large fluffy towels. They also have a free shuttle service from the Beppu train station, so going all the way up to this hotel on the hill was not a problem. The Aqua Garden is not gender-restricted and requires swimming attire that I did not bring, so I had to rent a swim suit for 400 yen. The water in the pool was warm and comfortable. There was a lights and sound show that makes use of a projector, a water fountain and a smoke machine, which made for a unique show. After watching the show, we had an enjoyable dip at the gender-separated Tanayu open air hot bath.  It was relaxing to dip in the hot infinity pools whilst enjoying the view of the city (obviously, photos are not allowed inside the bath ).

One of the pools at the Aqua Garden

Lights and Sound Show

Takegawara Onsen

This bathing facility is said to be the oldest in Beppu. It only cost 100 yen to enter. The bathing area itself is really basic in stark contrast to that of Suginoi Hotel, with just one pool that I couldn’t dip in because it was extremely hot (a few centigrades hotter then the regular onsen). There were some  wash basins and stools but not much else, so the visitor should bring his/her own toiletries. I didn’t stay long because the water was too hot, but the old regulars seem to enjoy the bath. I had a little headache after that, but I was still glad that I got to experience the ‘authentic’ Japanese public bath.

Takegawara Onsen

 

I’m sure I would love Beppu even more if I visited during any other season except summer. I can enjoy and appreciate the hells and the hot spring baths properly when I’m not sweating like crazy from the humidity. I’d definitely go back to Beppu in winter!

Testing the hand bath in front of Beppu station

Whaleshark lovin’ and more at Donsol, Sorsogon

Donsol in Sorsogon was once a sleepy fishing town that was transformed into a prime tourist spot, all thanks to the whale sharks (butanding in the local tongue) that frequent Donsol’s waters every December to May. They were able to create an effective eco-tourism strategy that promotes whale shark interaction, but with minimal impact to the gentle giants.

We were lucky to have the opportunity to swim with these impressive creatures in early 2010 during our trip to Bicol to visit a friend.

Getting to Donsol

From the Legazpi Airport, take a tricycle to the Public Terminal in Legazpi. Look for the public vans going to Donsol and wait for the seats to be filled (Fare is about Php 100 per person). From Donsol city proper, take a tricycle to Dancalan Beach.

For our trip, our host had a car so we drove to Donsol with no problems. We were even able to have fresh coconut juice when we saw some fresh buko being sold along the road.

Dancalan Beach

We arrived in Dancalan and quickly proceeded to the Municipal Tourism Office to register and pay for the whale shark interaction tour.

We paid for the boat rental (Php 3,500 for 7 passengers maximum), which we divided among the five of us, registration fee (php 100/person) and snorkel rental (Php 300). At the time, there were only about two or three other groups lined up for the tour so we did not have long to wait before we were ushered in to their office. We watched a video introduction about whale sharks and some general instructions on how to best interact with them. The main point was that we were not supposed to go too near the whale sharks to avoid any accidents and also to avoid disturbing them.

Whale Shark Interaction

After this, we were introduced to our Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO). He told us that he would be our guide during the interaction and led us to our boat. The boat crew included a spotter, whose task is to look for the whale sharks so our boat can go near them.

Our boat for the day

Our BIO instructed us to stay by the side of the boat with  our snorkels already in place, and wait for his signal to jump off the boat when the whale shark is within distance.

Waiting for the whale sharks

We didn’t have long to wait, and at his signal, we jumped into the water excitedly. When I put my head in the water, my initial reaction was fear. The whale shark was huge, as big as a bus!

Whale shark!

Then I reminded myself that they were harmless creatures who are only interested in plankton,  so I just marveled at their large size and spotted skin while they calmly glided past us.

Spots

The whaleshark’s fins up close

We jumped into the water several times more to see the gentle giants, and I still felt awe every time I see them. Our BIO was very helpful (and very strong) as he dragged the girls (my friend and myself) to keep up with the whale sharks. He also volunteered to take underwater photos of the sharks for us, since we were too slow to get a lot of good shots.

Commensal fishes attached to the whale shark

We hardly noticed the time, and just like that the allotted three hours for our interaction was over. We headed back to Dancalan Beach, tired but overwhelmed from the experience.

View of Mayon Volcano from our boat

Enjoying the sunset

We got back to Dancalan Beach in the mid-afternoon. Our next activity, firefly watching, wouldn’t start until after dark, so we went around Donsol town to look for a place to eat then returned to Dancalan Beach before dark. We still had a few  hours to spare so we decided to hang out at the beach resort beside the Tourism Office. We whiled away the time by enjoying the view of the majestic sunset.

Sunset at Dancalan Beach (photo by Princess Que)

Dancalan Beach (photo by Rolly Peoro)

Sunset at Dancalan Beach

Firefly Watching

At about 6 pm, we went to the designated area for booking the Firefly Watching tour. We paid Php 1,250 for the boat (maximum of 7 persons in a boat), which included a guide.

Our guide led us to the bank of the Ugod river where our boatman was waiting for us. The moon was almost full and there were few clouds in the sky so the night was a bit bright, but we were still able to see the trees along the river bank alight with hundreds of fireflies. The view was calming and pleasant to the senses (sans the good photographs since it was dark and the boat was rocking).

Sidetrip: Cagsawa Ruins

Since the access to Donsol includes passing by Albay (Legazpi Airport), we made sure to slip in a visit to the famed  Cagsawa Ruins Park. The area was devastated by Mt. Mayon’s explosive eruption in the 19th century. What remained of the previous Cagsawa town and nearby areas was the belfry of the Cagsawa Church, which is now postcard-famous for its picturesque view of Mt. Mayon as the backdrop.

We took a jeepney from Legazpi town proper then a tricycle to the ruins. We were lucky to have visited on a bright sunny day, our view of Mayon Volcano was perfect!

Cagsawa Ruins

There were kids offering to take our photos for us, and it was a good thing we relented despite our initial hesitation. They seemed they know their way around cameras, so we happily obeyed their instructions to pose this way and that. The photos looked great and we enjoyed our photoshoot. We decided to give the kid Php 50, although he didn’t really say how much he wanted.

The giant in Cagsawa (one of the many shots our young photographer took)

Our Donsol adventure was really worth the trip. Seeing the majestic creatures up close was really a treat. Watching the fireflies and seeing the perfect cone of Mayon Volcano was an added visual bonus. This trip will remain one of my most memorable experiences.

Transit in Hong Kong: my 6-hour stopover tour

Hong Kong is an important air hub connecting Asia and the rest of the world. I used Hong Kong airport for transit several times but only for short periods.

Asia’s World City

So when I last booked a flight with Cathay Pacific, I planned a 6-hour stopover to explore Hong Kong for a short time. I was very glad to learn that there were great incentives for transit travelers: 1. the 120 HKD (15.50 USD) departure tax is waived for passengers arriving and departing within the day; and 2. the Airport Express train offers a free return journey for passengers traveling in the same day (100 HKD instead of 200 HKD for the two-way journey to Hong Kong Station). I had no reason not to go out of the airport!

View of Hong Kong from the plane

Airport Express Train to Hong Kong Station

My flight to Hong Kong arrived at around 3 pm and my flight out was at 21:30 pm, so I had about 5 hours to spare (excluding time I have to spend at immigration). After about 30 minutes at the airport (I already have an onward boarding pass to my next destination and immigration procedures were very fast and efficient), I went out and bought same day return tickets for the Airport Express train to Hong Kong Station.

Same day return tickets for the Airport Express essentially gives you a free return trip! (100 HKD instead of 200 HKD for a two-way trip)

Trains depart every 10 minutes and the ride from the airport to Hong Kong Station is only 24 minutes — comfy and fast!

Inside the Airport Express Train

Ferry from Central Pier to Hong Kong Station

When I arrived at Hong Kong station a little before 4 pm, I deposited my bags at the left luggage counter (check available station services at this link). It set me back 55 HKD, but at least I didn’t have to carry my heavy luggage around. After that, I walked around the connecting shopping mall for a bit… hmmm alright alright I didn’t know which way to go! But I eventually found the signs pointing me to the Central Pier. I followed the sign to Pier 7, where I rode the ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui (ferries depart every 10 minutes and the trip across is about 10 minutes long).

Hong Kong’s Central Pier

The ferry ride only costs 2.50 HKD, and I happily inserted my coins into their automated machine to get a token and wait for the ferry.

The ferry that took me across Victoria Harbour

“Beware of moving gangplank,” when entering.

Inside the ferry

The view during the trip across the harbour

Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade and Avenue of Stars

I arrived at Tsim Sha Tsui Pier at around 4:15 pm, and walked the length of the Promenade. I passed by and took photos of the Clock Tower, the HK Cultural Center, the HK Museum of Art and other interesting statues before I arrived at the Avenue of Stars, where I found most of the crowds.

The Clock Tower and surrounding area

The Clock Tower is a Declared Monument, protected under the Antiquities and Monuments Ordinance. It was part of the Kowloon-Canton Railway Terminus.

Hong Kong Museum of Art

Look up!

Commemorative Sculpture of the Beijing 2008 Olympic Torch

The Avenue of Stars

I leisurely walked along the Avenue of Stars and enjoyed seeing my fellow tourists gaily posing with the random statues lining the walk and snappily taking photos of each other.

A lot of statue lovin’ at the Avenue of Stars…

Tourists enjoying their photo session spree

Guess what they’re taking a picture of?

The Bruce Lee statue! This statue is the highlight of the Avenue of Stars.

My favorite part of the Promenade, however, was the view of Victoria Harbour and Hong Kong skyline. It was really impressive, although the weather was really gloomy (not so good for picture taking with my not so good camera).

Victoria Harbour

Fishing at the harbour

Mong Kok Ladies Night Market and Sneakers Street

After an hour, I left the Avenue of Stars and walked towards Tsim Sha Tsui Station and rode the MTR to Mong Kok using the Tsuen Wan Line (7 minutes, 5 HKD). I arrived at Mong Kok around 5:30 pm, and was greeted by lots and lots of merchandise. The street was filled with an assortment of clothes, bags, toys, souvenirs and other oddments, most of which are intended for tourists.

The Mong Kok Ladies Market is not as crowded in the early evening.

I window shopped while walking the streets of Mong Kok, until I came upon Sneakers Street. Unlike Mong Kok that sells its wares on the street, Sneakers Street have large sports shops that sells, well, lots and lots of shoes. I was really planning to buy trekking shoes as my old pair was ready to retire, so I thought the Sneakers Street was a good place as any to look for a replacement. It took me a good while walking back and forth the shops before I finally decided on a pair that I really liked. So after 45 minutes, I left Sneakers Street wearing a new pair of shoes 🙂

New shoes from Sneakers Street

Central Station and (supposedly) The Peak

From Mong Kok, I took the MTR Tsuen Wan Line to Central Station (12 minutes, 11.50 HKD) and made my way to the J2 exit of the station to ride the tram at the Peak Tram Lower Terminus. I initially planned to go to The Peak for its nice night view of Hong Kong, but it was very cloudy when I stepped out of the station. The Peak had been covered in clouds all day, so I figured I wouldn’t see the stunning view that I was expecting, and there would be no point in going if I’ll be standing in a cloud. So I just walked idly around Central’s tall buildings before deciding to return to the airport.

Hong Kong’s Central area is full of these tall buildings

I followed the signs from Central Station so I could get back to Hong Kong Station to take the the Airport Express. I got back to the airport at around 8 pm, plenty of time for dinner before my 9:30 pm flight.

So that was my very short Hong Kong tour. Too bad I couldn’t visit The Peak because of the weather, but I don’t mind. I have that, and a lot more places, to visit when I go back to Hong Kong for another stopover… or maybe a proper trip next time 🙂

Expenses summary:

Airport express (round trip) – 100 HKD

Left luggage fee – 55 HKD

Star ferry from Central Pier to Tsim Sha Tsui – 2.50 HKD

MTR Tsim Sha Tsui to Mong Kok – 5 HKD

MTR Mong Kok to Central – 11.50 HKD)

[The Peak Tram (round trip tickets – 40 HKD]

*Total expenses (without left luggage fee) would have been around 159 HKD (20.50 USD) if I went to The Peak.

Colorful Kyoto: my Top 5 must-see places

If I were to recommend just one place in Japan, it would definitely be Kyoto. With its world-famous temples and shrines, Kyoto is traditional Japan through and through. I have been to Kyoto three seasons out of four (about 14 days in total) and have immensely enjoyed Kyoto’s beautiful and vibrant colors.

Kyoto in Autumn, Winter, and Spring

At first, we tried to visit as many sights as we could (and there are a lot! even a whole week is not enough!), but on our succeeding trips we learned to prioritize. Some places are really worth the visit and re-visits, because a different season will reveal a different but equally beautiful sight.

I have listed my Top 5 must-see sites in an area where you could easily get overwhelmed with the far too many sites. If you have limited time to tour Kyoto, then you can skip all the other destinations except these five (if you believe my taste, that is):

1. Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion). One word: gold. With a gilded temple, what more can you ask for? This is perhaps the most extravagant temple in Japan, with most of the pavilion covered in gold leaf. The pond in front of the pavilion also adds to its photogenic charms. The temple’s magnificence is hard to capture in words, but perhaps the photographs can describe it more eloquently.

The Golden Pavilion

Autumn colors in Kinkakuji’s pond

Kinkakuji Temple

Rainbow in the mini-waterfalls of the garden surrounding Kinkakuji

How about some tea? There is an area for traditional Japanese tea just before the exit

2. Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion). Nope, it’s not covered in silver… The temple pavilion’s design was modeled after Kinkakuji, so it was named the “silver pavilion” for comparison (or because it’s catchy, i really dunno). My favorite part of this temple is not the pavilion, but the lovely moss garden. In the autumn, the Silver Pavilion is just beautiful beyond words.

The Philosopher’s Walk on the way to Ginkakuji

The Silver Pavilion

Ginkakuji Sand Garden

The beautiful garden in Ginkakuji

Momiji (maple leaves) in the moss

View from the garden slopes

3. Kiyomizudera (Pure Water Temple). This temple is one of the most popular in Japan, but I like it best for the cherry blossoms in spring and for the kouyou leaves in autumn. During these seasons, the temple has evening illumination events. For me, those are best times to visit.

Autumn illumination at the Kiyomizudera Temple

Illuminated pagoda in Kiyomizudera

Illuminated momiji

Illuminated trees make for a beautiful photo backdrop

In addition to enjoying the temple’s sites, part of the fun in visiting Kiyomizudera is to walk in the sloped streets of the Higashiyama District. The district exudes that traditional Japan feel, with its wooden shops and buildings that sells local crafts and souvenirs, not to mention the delicious food that you can try (there are some shops that offer free taste of their delicacy).

Busy Higashiyama District

Souvenir shops like this one line the streets of Higashiyama

Interesting food choices can be sampled at Higashiyama

4. Fushimi Inari Shrine. If you need to visit one shrine in Japan, then this should be it. The most prominent part of a shrine for me is the torii, and Fushimi Inari Shrine has thousands of these orange-red gates that are closely arranged in rows. The gates cover the trail going up the mountain, which makes for a very interesting hike.

Entrance to the shrine

Foxes are the messengers of Inari, the god of rice

Before entering any shrine, you should wash your hands and mouth at the purification trough.

Senbon torii (Thousands of torii gates)

Walking under the toriis somehow feels surreal.

Your budget dictates the size of the shrine you want built. A torii built for Inari could help your business become more prosperous.

Smaller torii for smaller budgets

Spring flowers at the Fushimi Inari Shrine grounds

View from the lookout point mid-hike

5. Arashiyama. Located in the western outskirts of Kyoto, the place boasts of several sights to behold. I especially like this place in autumn, when the colors of fall accentuate Arashiyama’s natural beauty. The area has a number of attractions, but a half-day walking tour should bring you to the top sites if you are pressed for time.

There is the garden in Tenryu-ji temple , which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The garden is considered as one of the most beautiful in Japan, and I couldn’t agree more when I saw the place in autumn. I first saw it in winter and it was beautiful then, but seeing it in all its autumn glory was just magical.

Tenryu-ji Garden

Another remarkable site is the Bamboo Groves at the back of the Tenryu-ji Garden. I don’t understand how they could make bamboo look so idyllic, but there it was. Walking through the neatly arranged bamboos, I couldn’t help but get carried away by the magic of the place.

Bamboo Grove

One good place for a stroll is along the Hozugawa River, where you can watch the boats leisurely taking their passengers on a tour. Autumn would be the best time for this stroll, as the boats are set on a backdrop of orange-brown-red-yellow leaves from the trees on the mountain slopes. Crossing the river using the Togetsukuyo Bridge is also best done in autumn, when the colors of the forested mountain slopes make the view truly magnificent.

Hozugawa River

Togetsukuyo Bridge

If you are up for some physical activity, a hike to the top of Kamayama-koen will give you a good view of Arashiyama’s fascinating sites. You can also visit the monkey park in Iwatayama to get a good look at the monkeys freely roaming around.

View from the top

So that’s my best of the best list for Kyoto. If I could, I would definitely revisit these places, especially in spring and autumn. Kyoto is really the most colorful place in Japan for me, literally and figuratively 🙂

For instructions on getting to these places, please visit the ever reliable Japan Guide website.

Conference and side trips: My hectic week in London

“There’s no place like London…” so says the lyrics from the Sweeney Todd musical. I have always wanted to go to London because some of my favorite stories are set in this vibrant place. I wanted to see for myself what I have only imagined from books and movies. I finally had the opportunity when I presented a paper during a conference of the Geological Society. I stayed an extra couple of days before and after the conference so I could do a few touristy side trips.

The reason I went to London 🙂

The day after my flight (We went to Stonehenge immediately after my arrival), my aunt went with me from Southampton to London. We arrived in the city center a little before lunch time, just in time to see the changing of the guards at the Buckingham Palace.

Waiting for the ceremony at the Buckingham Palace

We waited for quite a while in the cordoned-off area in front of the Palace for the 11:30 am ceremony, but the long wait was worth it. I enjoyed watching the marching soldiers in their tall hats and red uniforms, with their serious expressions and snappy executions.

Changing of the guards at the Buckingham Palace

After the ceremony, we walked towards Trafalgar Square and checked out the odd assortments of statues and buildings along the way.

London Red: the iconic phone booth and double decker bus

With the very tall but very friendly policeman 🙂

After that, we proceeded to the Horse Guards Headquarters to observe the stone-faced soldiers standing guard.

At the entrance of the Horse Guards Headquarters

We continued on towards Downing Street, where the Prime Minister resides, and then to Westminster Abbey and to the Houses of Parliament (which houses Big Ben) to observe some of London’s iconic buildings and symbols.

Westminster Abbey

Big Ben in the Houses of Parliament

We then crossed Westminster Bridge to ride the London Eye.

The London Eye as seen from Westminster Bridge

The slow-moving capsules were fascinating to watch from the ground, but it was more fun when we were riding in one.

London Eye from below, taken while waiting in line

The capsule next to ours

We had relatively fair weather that day so we were able to see a great bird’s eye view of the city. The London Eye was a great way to see London.

After that, we rode the Tube to get to our next destination. For me, the London Underground is an attraction in itself. I am always reminded of Neil Gaiman’s novel Neverwhere whenever I see the sign “Mind the Gap” written on the platform.

The iconic Underground phrase

We next went to the Natural History Museum. I had always wanted to visit it since I was a kid, so I was really excited when we went inside (free entrance, yehey!). We first visited the dinosaur section (of course!), where I got really fascinated with the exhibits.

Dinosaurs at the Natural History Museum

The museum was too big to finish in half a day so after visiting the dinosaurs, we quickly toured the Darwin Centre cocoon and then went to the exhibit of my favorite topic: the Earth 🙂

The cocoon

Cool entrance for a geology exhibit, I must say 🙂

My grin was as wide as it  could be while we were viewing the exhibits featuring rocks, minerals, earthquakes, volcanoes and other earth features (nerd alert!!!).

Exhibits at the Red Zone

After the Natural History Museum, we walked to Harrod’s, because I have always been curious of this posh department store since the news of Princess Diana’s death. Incidentally, they had a small memorial at the elevator lobby in the basement of the building for Princess Diana and Dodi al Fayed.

The memorial at Harrod’s

After all the walking and sightseeing, we went home to a friend’s house and called it a day since my jetlagged body couldn’t walk straight anymore. But I was happy because I was able to see some of London’s more famous symbols in just a few hours. It was a successful day for the tourist 🙂

The next day found me in Piccadilly Circus, where I met my labmates for the conference at the Geological Society in Burlington House.

Discussions over lunch during the conference

The conference lasted for three days, which meant that I had three nights to discover more of London 🙂 After the first day of the conference, we just walked around Chinatown near Leicester Square until we decided to eat in Aberdeen Steak House. I had the biggest portion of ribs that I would ever have in my entire life, and I needed the help of my dinner companions to finish my plate.

Ribs!

During the second night of the conference, the participants were treated to a fancy dinner at the Royal Society. It was amusing to see (student) geologists being as uncomfortable as I am eating a full-course meal in a fancy place full of portraits of famous scientists, but it was a very interesting experience.

Fancy dinner at The Royal Society

After dinner, I met with two of my Filipino friends who were residing in Europe at that time. Our friend brought us to a gay nightclub to dance and more interestingly, to watch the weekly strip contest. Every Thursday, G-A-Y  bar has its Porn Idol contest, where anyone with the guts can strip on stage for a chance to win 100 pounds.

Porn Idol competition at G-A-Y (picture was blurred on purpose ;p)

It was a very umm, revealing experience for me. My friends and I had a grand time watching and cheering for the contestants. We stayed there until well past midnight so we missed our last train and walked home, tired but happy from spending a nice time in the company of great friends.

Good vibes, great night 🙂

The last day of the conference finished early so we decided to make the most of our time and visit the Prime Meridian.

Going to the Royal Observatory to see the Greenwich Meridian

Random (but very sweet) couple walking to the Prime Meridian

It was a bit of a walk to reach the top of the hill where the Greenwich Meridian was located, and I hiked up the hill in my black dress and heels since we came straight from the conference. People were staring and probably wondering why I was visiting the Prime Meridian in a dress, but it’s not everyday that I get the chance to visit Longitude 0 and stand in the center of world time, so I didn’t care. I was really happy to stand over that line dividing the East and the West, imaginary though it was.

It doesn’t look it, but I am standing on the Prime Meridian! (See the line?)

We stayed for a while in the park, contentedly sitting on the grass and enjoying the nice weather. It was great to just relax and do nothing after a hectic few days of running around.

Of course my London trip wouldn’t be complete without watching at least one musical at the West End, so I went back to the city to buy tickets and meet my friend. We chose Wicked, because it was the most popular show at the time. My friend and I really enjoyed the show.

Outside the Apollo Victoria Theatre

Watching musical plays is really a joy for me, so I was very happy during and after the show. My friend and I had Wicked fever for a week, belting out “Defying Gravity” every chance we get. It was one experience that will stick with me for a long time. I wish I could go back to the West End to see more musical plays.

After our Wicked adventure, we went to King’s Cross Station to see Harry Potter’s Platform 9 3/4. It was already closing when we arrived a little before 10:00 pm. We made our best damsels-in-distress act to the guard so he would allow us to have some photos before he closed for the day.

A quick photo at King’s Cross, because they were closing for the night

We then went home to prepare for our trip to Nottingham the next day.

So there goes my quick trip and tour of London. The hectic week I spent in this exciting city was surely not enough because there really is no place quite like it.

No place like London (taken from the London Eye)

Taking on Japan’s highest peak: Our Mt. Fuji climb

Climbing Mt. Fuji has always been on my to-do list since I came to Japan. So we immediately made plans to hike Japan’s tallest and most famous mountain during my first summer there. Because of snow, the official climbing season in Mt. Fuji is only from July to August. We decided to climb late July, to avoid the busiest time (middle of August). (For more information on climbing Mt. Fuji, please check out this site.)

Getting There

Our plan was to climb using the Yoshida Trail, which is the most popular and most accessible route by commute from Tokyo. We also planned on hiking during the night so we can be on the summit in time for the sunrise.

The Yoshida Trail

We met with our climbing team in Shinjuku Station to take the train before 5 pm.

Our train route from Shinjuku to Fuji (www.hyperdia.com)

After a few train changes, we arrived at Kawaguchiko Station at around 8 pm.

In Kawaguchiko, we joined several people lining up to buy bus tickets for the Subaru Line Toll Road (1500 JPY one way) bound for Mt. Fuji’s Kawaguchiko 5th station, where most climbers start their ascent. We were one of the last people to board the bus, so we had to stand for the 50-minute bus ride up the mountain. Most of the other commuters in the bus were also foreigners, since Japanese climbers usually climb as part of group tours.

At the trailhead

2,305 masl at the 5th station

When we arrived at the Kawaguchiko 5th station (2,305 m elevation) at around 9 pm, we were surprised to see busloads of climbers! The group tour buses proceeded directly to the 5th station so this was where we realized just how many people we would be climbing with.

A group of climbers stretching before starting the climb

The 5th station looked like the perfect tourist trap, with shops selling souvenirs and climbing accessories that anybody might want to buy at the last minute.

Souvenir shop at the 5th station

Food and snacks cost double the price when compared to convenience stores outside the mountain (I bought a Snickers bar for 250 yen, which would normally have cost 120 yen. As we went up, this price increased at each station until it ballooned to 600 yen near the summit!).

Buying bread from the genki shopkeeper

We had dinner/snacks upon our arrival and started our ascent at 10 pm. The temperature was much lower at the 5th station compared to lower elevations, so we put on our jackets before starting our ascent.

Fight!

The climb to the summit

Where to?

The start of the 5th station featured several signs and maps to guide us to the right direction.It wasn’t necessary, though. The continuous stream of people coming and going along the trail was guide enough for us.

Our fellow climbers

The first part of the trail consists of wide man-made stairs that was built from volcanic gravel. At first, the stairs were wide enough for 5 people to climb side by side. As the climb progressed, the gravel were replaced by large boulders and the trail became narrower and narrower until we had to line up one by one.

Wider trail during the first half of the climb

Climbing the narrow trail

And what a line we made! The light from climbers’ headlamps made a dotted line from the 5th station to the summit. It was really a sight to behold, and the photos we took were not enough to do it justice .

A portion of the trail showing the line of light from headlamps on the horizon

Every ‘station’ on Mt. Fuji serve as a rest stop, consisting of cottages with some benches to sit on. The huts serve as lodges (for those who can afford to sleep there at 8,000 yen/night), but it also sells souvenirs and food.

At one of the rest stops, where stamped wooden sticks were sold as souvenirs

There were some huts offering temporary shelter, but only if you buy food from them. We bought hot chocolate (at 500 yen a cup!) so that we can sit inside the hut. Unfortunately, if you only buy drinks, you cannot really enter, only your butt is allowed to sit on the elevated floor while your foot remains outside. We tried to sleep while sitting, with our heads on our knees. After about 20 minutes in that position, we gave up and headed off again.

For me, the worst part was to not go at my own pace on the later stages of the climb. It was really hard to stop every few steps to wait for the people ahead of me. And since the line was so many kilometers long, it was really slow-going.

Walking ever so slowly…

But the crowd was part of the Fuji experience, so we just trudged on with the group.

Smiling, because there was nothing else I could do 🙂

By 4 in the morning, the summit was only a few meters away, but the sun was already starting to appear and the huge crowd and narrow path really slowed the climb. We just decided to stop, sit and enjoy the sunrise. And it sure did not disappoint! Watching the sun rise in Mt. Fuji while we were above the clouds was a very majestic moment. The sea of clouds were also a sight to behold. The magnificent sight made me forget my fatigue and drowsiness for a while.

At 5 am we stood up to finish our hike, and it was quicker since not too many people were on the trail at this time. After 10 minutes, we reached the summit (Yey!).

At the summit of Mt. Fuji

The Japanese Flag on the highest point in the country

It was like market day up there. There were far too many people buying food and souvenirs while others were busy looking for a place to rest.

We walked past the shops and stalls and picked a spot to sit on for breakfast. When we’ve had our fill , we were so sleepy that we just had to take a nap. Since we did not have anything to lie on, we just lied down on the gravel. And so it was that we came to the top of Mt. Fuji to sleep on the dirt 🙂

I think this was my first (and last) time to sleep directly on the dirt, and I slept fitfully 🙂

Going down and back

View of the Fuji Lakes from the summit

After our power nap, we started to descend by 7 am. I had trouble going down because the path was made of loose gravel, which made my feet sink.

The terrain going down

I felt that the soil was weighing me down, plus the dust flying around did not help to motivate me at all.

Leftover snow from the past winter

Climbers alongside the heavy machinery used to make the trails at Mt. Fuji

But I was eager to get the descent over with, so I just continued going down with the group until we reached the 5th station before noon.

Climbers “resting” near the end of the climb

We lined up for the bus to take us back to Kawaguchiko and from there, we rode the bus going directly to Tokyo (2,500 yen fare), where we slept for most of the three-hour trip. When we arrived back in Tokyo, our adventure seemed surreal. I couldn’t believe that just the night before we were climbing the tallest mountain in Japan with throngs of other climbers, then the next day we were back in the busy streets of Tokyo. Our Mt. Fuji experience will definitely be one of my more memorable climbs.

Geotourism at its finest: A fieldtrip along Taiwan’s East Coast

My most favorite part of geologic conferences is the fieldtrip portion 🙂 So naturally I was excited when we attended a conference in Taitung, Taiwan. I have been to Taiwan thrice, but this was my first time in Taitung.

The conference proper was for the first two days, and on the third day we checked out of our hotel in Taitung. We boarded a bus that would take us from the south to the central portion of Taiwan’s East Coast, which is considered as a ‘National Scenic Area’ in Taiwan’s tourism campaign. The trip showcased the East Coast’s geologic formations that also served as tourist attractions.

Our first stop was the Lichi Melange.A melange in geology is a body of rock with blocks and fragments of all sizes and rock types contained within a sheared matrix (I hope I did not lose you there). To be more simple, it’s a jumble of different rocks formed when there is crushing or collision in the Earth’s crust. Anyway, we just looked at the crumbling outcrops (the Lichi Melange is unstable and easily eroded) and tried to identify the different rocks contained in it. The place reminded me so much of the lahars caused by Mt. Pinatubo in the Philippines.

Explaining about the Lichi Melange

Our next stop consisted of prettier rocks 🙂 The Xiaoyeliu Area (‘Little Yehliu’, but don’t ask me to pronounce this) boasts of pretty sandstone outcrops along the coast.Tectonic uplift seems to have caused the exposure of these rock units. We enjoyed taking photographs of the beautifully exposed sandstone layers.

Uplifted corals overlying the sandstone unit

The sandstone layers up close

There was a Visitor Center explaining the geologic features and also selling some souvenirs.

Exhibit at the Visitor Center explaining about the origin of the rock formations

We also watched a video promoting the sites along the East Coast of Taiwan.

Going north, we made a short stop at the ‘Water Running Up Area’, which was just that: an area where the water was running up instead of down (if that makes any sense).

Water Running Up!

There were small canals, where you can place a leaf or a paper boat and watch your leaf ‘climb’ the slope(?). I couldn’t figure out if the water was really climbing, but that was what it looked like. But aside from this, there was nothing more to see except for some flowers in the garden. It was pretty straightforward: they said there was water running up, and so that was what we came for. In any case, it was still pretty baffling/interesting.

We stayed longer at our next destination: the Sanxiantai Island (Three Immortals Island). It was mid-day when we arrived there, so we discussed geology under the scorching heat of the sun by the beach outcrop.There were some tourists soaking their feet at the pebbled beach, but we just made do with taking a lot of photographs, especially with the very nice bridge (connecting the island to the mainland) as background.

Pebbly beach

We had a quick Taiwanese lunch at a restaurant along the way, and then we stopped for a while at the marker of the Tropic of Cancer. It’s a tall white pillar that indicates where the Tropic of Cancer cuts across Taiwan.

Tropic of Cancer landmark

Well, I didn’t know that people made markers for that, but there you are! They say that at noon during the annual summer solstice, the sun shines right into the slits of the pillar and one can experience being ‘shadowless’.

Our next major stop was in Shitiping. The Taiwan tourism website claims it is a site for world-class outdoor geology. Upon arrival, we immediately saw some amazing geologic formations. The cliffs on the side of the coast is continually being eroded by waves, resulting in nice rock formations.

Wave action eroding the rocks

We proceeded to the coast, where we got to see more of the amazing rock formations. The strong waves have shaped and eroded the rock exposures over time. We used our umbrellas as protection not just from the sun, but from the spray of saltwater caused by the huge waves. Even then, when a huge wave slammed against the rocks, we got soaked! Good thing the weather was sunny so we became dry before we returned to the bus. We walked to another area further along the coast, and we saw a geologist’s playground. Tilted rock layers, faults, and exotic blocks provided for a good distraction from the heat.The nerds in us were awakened by the amazing rock formations and we had fun taking photos with the interesting rocks.

Planking in the direction of the rock layers

It’s our fault!

Our last stop for that day was a viewing deck (the name of which I can’t remember because it was only supposed to be a toilet break). There were coin-operated binoculars, which offered a view of a good part of the East Coast. While looking at the nice view and remembering our stops for the day, I was impressed at how Taiwan was able to incorporate geology to its tourism industry. While it was nice to admire a view of the coast, the experience was made better by explaining how the place came to be that way. This trip showed me how effective geotourism can be. Now, if we could just do this for my country… (A girl can dream, can’t she?)

Seoul in a day’s work: a walking tour of South Korea’s capital

We only got to stay in Seoul for two days, but the city was so irresistible that we just had to try to squeeze in as much of the sights as we could (tired feet and sleep be d*mned). When our hostel manager learned of how much we covered in a day, he couldn’t believe it. Well, our feet couldn’t believe it either, but we really enjoyed the sights so Seoul was well worth the effort 🙂

The evening of our arrival, we walked around Hongik University area, which is known for its clubs and hangout places. We had dinner in a traditional Korean BBQ restaurant, where we had delicious grilled pork that we wrapped in leaves and added with different types of side dishes (Korea is ‘best in side dish’, as my friend remarked). We also tried their beer (which we did not like) but their traditional rice wine, makkoli, tasted way better. We walked around the area and saw a lot of clubs and drinking places. We also noticed several drunk/wasted people, which made things much  more interesting. We eventually settled in a British(?) pub where we had imported beer (because Korean beer was really not to our liking) until the wee hours of the morning.

The next day, armed with a map and some instructions from the hostel manager, we embarked on our mission to see as much of Seoul as we could in a day. At about 10:30 in the morning, we took the train to Anguk station and walked a block to get to our first stop: the Changdeokgung Palace and Garden, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was the second palace after Gyeongbokgung and was the seat of government for some hundred years. The admission fees to the palace (3,000 KRW or ~2.6 USD) and the garden (5,000 KRW or ~4.4 USD) come with scheduled guided tours in several languages. When we arrived, there was an ‘English Secret Garden Tour’ scheduled to start in 15 minutes so we decided to take that one. The bad thing was that we couldn’t enter the garden without paying for the entrance to the palace so we had to pay 8,000 KRW for our admission. Anyway, we went straight to the garden to line up for the English tour. Our tour guide, dressed in a simplified hanbok (traditional Korean costume), told us about the Secret Garden’s history while leading us to different garden pavilions. The tour included some uphill climbs, which contributed to the fun 🙂 The guide pointed out a number of structures built for Korean royalty, such as the libraries and the rest areas. I felt that the architecture was similar to the Japanese and Chinese, but somehow uniquely Korean (if that makes sense). But more than the unique pavilions, I enjoyed the feel of the centuries-old trees with the bird calls. Aside from the interesting history of Changdeokgung Secret Garden, I was really impressed with how they preserved the old forest of the garden while the area around the palace were urbanized.

After the 1.5-hour tour/hike of  the Secret Garden, we had lunch at the first Korean restaurant that we chanced upon. They were serving octopus bibimbap, which was very, very, very spicy. I chose the non-spicy one and was very happy, while my friends had their tongues tortured 😉 It was a very good Korean lunch.

In the heat of the early afternoon sun, we then walked the alleys of the traditional Bukchon Hanok Village, a cultural center between the two main palaces in Seoul.

The term bukchon  means northern and hanok means traditional house, so the area essentially consists of traditional Korean houses (said to be originally for court officials and royal families),  museums and workshops to experience traditional Korean arts and crafts.We just walked around and admired the houses, but did not bother trying the activities (embroidery, knot-tying, woodwork, etc). We also saw a few stores selling K-pop novelty items (too bad I don’t know any of the Korean pop stars).

Next, we checked out Insadong-gil, across the street from Bukchon Hanok Village. It’s a street full of Korean souvenirs, from ceramics and furniture to keychains and fridge magnets. There are also cafes and street food carts lining the streets. Insadong is your typical souvenir street.

The next destination was our favorite: Cheonggyecheon Stream. From Insadong, the map indicated it was a couple of blocks away. We made our way to the busy streets and took photos of the amusing architecture, then we saw it: a stream in the middle of the street lined with tall buildings. It was a very clean stream too. We were amazed at how clean it was considering that it’s located in the country’s downtown area (but perhaps it’s not fair to compare it to my country hehe).
We noticed a lot of locals under the bridges, taking advantage of the shade and the cool feel of the air beside the stream. There were families with kids playing in the water and couples enjoying their dates. We took a rest from all the walking and dipped our tired feet in the cool stream. The stream was really a refreshing break for us.

We then proceeded to the Seoul Plaza. It was a famous site for demonstrations and since it was Labor Day, there was a very big demonstration. The atmosphere was a little bit tense because of the big crowd, so we just passed by the plaza quickly, but not before taking a good look at the modern Seoul City Hall.

We continued to walk through Myeongdong, their famous shopping district, famous for large malls such as Lotte. Since we did not really have much time, we skipped the shopping and went straight for the Namsan Cable Car Station that would take us to N Seoul Tower. The N Seoul Tower is a communication tower located in Mount Namsan, which offers a good view of the city.There we admired the view of Seoul and enjoyed looking at the thousands of heart-shaped locks put by hopeful lovers on the railings.
The place was full of couples in matching outfits, so we surmised that it was a popular dating place.  The tower has restaurants and museums (teddy bear  museum, that is) but we did not bother to visit them as we were very tired. We just went down and took the bus then subway to go back to our hostel.

The next morning was our tour of the Demilitarized Zone (which I will write about in a separate entry). In the afternoon, we visited Gyeongbokgung Palace (it was closed the previous day) because we could not miss the grandest Royal Palace, could we? We arrived there a little before 4 pm and were just in time for the last changing of the guard for that day. Honestly, we just felt a little sorry for the guards, they were very tired and sleepy! After the ceremony, we proceeded to tour the palace grounds. The palace structures were very regal, and the architecture was very interesting.

We spent quite a bit of time in the big palace grounds before we went back to our hostel and then to the airport. Good thing we decided to squeeze in the Gyeongbokgung Palace to our busy itinerary.

Our very short visit to Seoul was tiring but very fruitful. We really enjoyed this very interesting city. On our way to the airport, Seoul bid us goodbye with one of the most beautiful sunsets, seen from our train. I would definitely like to go back again and see all of the other attractions that Seoul has to offer.

‘Time Travel’ in Singapore: The Pulau Ubin alternative

Singapore is known for being a highly industrialized city with its high-rise buildings and modern landscape. So it came as no surprise that the more popular tourist attractions were man-made (Orchard Rd, Sentosa, Universal Studios, Marina Bay Sands, and the list goes on). Of course, these places were all on the itinerary for our trip, but we also preferred something “off the beaten track”. That was why I was happy that I stumbled upon Pulau Ubin during my online search for Singapore destinations. The travel guides described Pulau Ubin as the last kampung (village) in Singapore. The island was able to retain its simple way of life despite the rest of Singapore’s fast rise to modernization. It was said that Pulau Ubin would be like a blast from Singapore’s past. That got our attention, so we happily reserved one full day of our Singapore trip just for Pulau Ubin. We took the MRT to Tanah Mera Station and then rode the no. 2 double-decker bus for a 30-minute ride to the Changi Bus Interchange. From there, we just had to walk a few meters to the Changi Point Ferry Terminal, but not before we had Singapore’s famous ice cream sandwich! Singapore is so hot and humid, the occasional ice cream is a must 🙂 We located the terminal for Pulau Ubin and fell in line with the other tourists to wait for the bumboats. Our bumboat got ready to leave when the 12-person seating capacity was filled, and the bumboat operator collected the 2.50 SGD fare during the 15-minute trip to the island. Upon our arrival, I could easily see why visiting Pulau Ubin was like traveling back in time. It was so different from modern Singapore even though it was just a few minutes away from the buzzing metropolis. More than the look (the building walls and roofs are mostly made of wood and GI sheets), it was the feel of the place that got to me. Whereas Singapore awed us with its man-made wonders, Pulau Ubin just made us feel right at home. It had the island vibe, where we just felt relaxed and did not feel at all rushed. We first went to the information kiosk and tried to get hold of a map of the island. The building was open and they had some exhibit about the flora and fauna in Pulau Ubin, but we failed to find a map or a person that could give us one. We ended up just looking at the maps posted in strategic places throughout the island. We then bought water and some snacks from a small sort-of convenience store near the port, and then checked out the bikes to rent for the day. There was a whole line of stores renting out bicycles, and the ‘aunties’ of the different stalls will try to catch your attention by shouting out prices and recommending different types of bikes. My friend Joyce was able to rent a mountain bike for 10 SGD, while my boyfriend and I chose a tandem bike (it looked interesting) that we rented for 15 SGD, after much haggling. The tandem bike took some getting used to, but we finally got the rhythm after a minute of pedaling. We decided we wanted to see as much of the island as possible, and since the port was on the southern part of the island, we just tried to follow the map that directed us towards the north, and just checked our progress every time we see a map along the way. The route we chose took us to a gravelly path that was full of shade because of the sheer number of trees.The route also had some sloped parts, so we enjoyed the challenge provided by the gearless tandem bike 🙂 We passed by farms, fruit plantations, bodies of water, and even a small beach. We kept on saying that the place didn’t feel like Singapore at all, but more like one of the small towns in the Philippines. After we ended up on one of the beaches on the northern part of the island, we took the road leading to the southeast, where Chek Jawa is located. Chek Jawa is an intertidal flat that boasts of a diverse ecosystem, from the mangroves to the shore and the lagoon. We parked our bikes at the designated bike parking space just at the entrance going to Chek Jawa, then walked to the shore. We chose the path leading to the boardwalk, where mangroves and palms and small crabs burrowing in the mud abound. We also climbed the Jejawi Tower to reach the 20-meter high viewing deck. The climb rewarded us with a very nice view of the forest and the sea. We then continued on to the coastal portion of the boardwalk. Our timing was off, because our visit coincided with the high tide, so we weren’t able to view the diverse intertidal ecosystem that Chek Jawa was so popular for. The view was still pretty good, though, and we just enjoyed a leisurely stroll across the kilometer-long boardwalk. All the cycling and walking of course made us hungry, so we headed back to Ubin Town (the area near the port) and got ourselves some late but sumptuous lunch at 2:30 pm. We then returned our bikes and rode the bumboat back to Singapore. I was really amused at the thought that Pulau Ubin belonged to Singapore, because the two places really felt very different from each other. I am also comforted by the thought that the Singapore government decided to forgo development in Pulau Ubin and preserve its rustic charm, at least for the time being. I was glad that in Pulau Ubin, I got to experience the old Singapore before it became the urban metropolis we now know it to be. The ‘time travel’ provided us with an outdoorsy day trip alternative to the usual Singapore destinations. 🙂