‘Time Travel’ in Singapore: The Pulau Ubin Alternative

Singapore is known for being a highly industrialized city with its high-rise buildings and modern landscape. So it came as no surprise that the more popular tourist attractions were man-made (Orchard Rd, Sentosa, Universal Studios, Marina Bay Sands, and the list goes on). Of course, these places were all on the itinerary for our trip, but we also preferred something “off the beaten track”. That was why I was happy that I stumbled upon Pulau Ubin during my online search for Singapore destinations. The travel guides described Pulau Ubin as the last kampung (village) in Singapore. The island was able to retain its simple way of life despite the rest of Singapore’s fast rise to modernization. It was said that Pulau Ubin would be like a blast from Singapore’s past. That got our attention, so we happily reserved one full day of our Singapore trip just for Pulau Ubin. We took the MRT to Tanah Mera Station and then rode the no. 2 double-decker bus for a 30-minute ride to the Changi Bus Interchange. From there, we just had to walk a few meters to the Changi Point Ferry Terminal, but not before we had Singapore’s famous ice cream sandwich! Singapore is so hot and humid, the occasional ice cream is a must We located the terminal for Pulau Ubin and fell in line with the other tourists to wait for the bumboats. Our bumboat got ready to leave when the 12-person seating capacity was filled, and the bumboat operator collected the 2.50 SGD fare during the 15-minute trip to the island. Upon our arrival, I could easily see why visiting Pulau Ubin was like traveling back in time. It was so different from modern Singapore even though it was just a few minutes away from the buzzing metropolis. More than the look (the building walls and roofs are mostly made of wood and GI sheets), it was the feel of the place that got to me. Whereas Singapore awed us with its man-made wonders, Pulau Ubin just made us feel right at home. It had the island vibe, where we just felt relaxed and did not feel at all rushed. We first went to the information kiosk and tried to get hold of a map of the island. The building was open and they had some exhibit about the flora and fauna in Pulau Ubin, but we failed to find a map or a person that could give us one. We ended up just looking at the maps posted in strategic places throughout the island. We then bought water and some snacks from a small sort-of convenience store near the port, and then checked out the bikes to rent for the day. There was a whole line of stores renting out bicycles, and the ‘aunties’ of the different stalls will try to catch your attention by shouting out prices and recommending different types of bikes. My friend Joyce was able to rent a mountain bike for 10 SGD, while my boyfriend and I chose a tandem bike (it looked interesting) that we rented for 15 SGD, after much haggling. The tandem bike took some getting used to, but we finally got the rhythm after a minute of pedaling. We decided we wanted to see as much of the island as possible, and since the port was on the southern part of the island, we just tried to follow the map that directed us towards the north, and just checked our progress every time we see a map along the way. The route we chose took us to a gravelly path that was full of shade because of the sheer number of trees.The route also had some sloped parts, so we enjoyed the challenge provided by the gearless tandem bike  We passed by farms, fruit plantations, bodies of water, and even a small beach. We kept on saying that the place didn’t feel like Singapore at all, but more like one of the small towns in the Philippines. After we ended up on one of the beaches on the northern part of the island, we took the road leading to the southeast, where Chek Jawa is located. Chek Jawa is an intertidal flat that boasts of a diverse ecosystem, from the mangroves to the shore and the lagoon. We parked our bikes at the designated bike parking space just at the entrance going to Chek Jawa, then walked to the shore. We chose the path leading to the boardwalk, where mangroves and palms and small crabs burrowing in the mud abound. We also climbed the Jejawi Tower to reach the 20-meter high viewing deck. The climb rewarded us with a very nice view of the forest and the sea. We then continued on to the coastal portion of the boardwalk. Our timing was off, because our visit coincided with the high tide, so we weren’t able to view the diverse intertidal ecosystem that Chek Jawa was so popular for. The view was still pretty good, though, and we just enjoyed a leisurely stroll across the kilometer-long boardwalk. All the cycling and walking of course made us hungry, so we headed back to Ubin Town (the area near the port) and got ourselves some late but sumptuous lunch at 2:30 pm. We then returned our bikes and rode the bumboat back to Singapore. I was really amused at the thought that Pulau Ubin belonged to Singapore, because the two places really felt very different from each other. I am also comforted by the thought that the Singapore government decided to forgo development in Pulau Ubin and preserve its rustic charm, at least for the time being. I was glad that in Pulau Ubin, I got to experience the old Singapore before it became the urban metropolis we now know it to be. The ‘time travel’ provided us with an outdoorsy day trip alternative to the usual Singapore destinations.

History lessons and ghost hunts: The Corregidor overnight adventure

Corregidor is a small island at the entrance of Manila Bay that served as an important defense fortress of the Philippines, from Spanish to American and then Japanese colonists. The US, in particular, made it into a world-class military encampment, before they themselves destroyed the facilities in WWII during the retaking from the Japanese. It is now a famous tourist destination for people interested in history, or even for those who just want to have an interesting get-away. Corregidor is very near Manila and is therefore a very convenient day tour or overnight trip for tourists and locals alike.

Map of Corregidor Island

Trips to Corregidor from Manila can only be arranged by Sun Cruises Philippines, which offers day tours and overnight trips. I highly recommend the overnight trip based on my experience. There are a lot of things that Corregidor has to offer, and 5 hours in the island would not cover it.

Malinta Tunnel, Corregidor

Rates are posted in the website of Sun Cruises. Day tours are available daily for 2,099 Php/person, inclusive of roundtrip ferry transfers, entrance and terminal fees, fuel surcharge, guided tour of the island and buffet lunch. Overnight trips cost an additional 1,500 Php for a double-occupancy room. You can reserve in advance by calling their reservation hotline (contact information here).

We went to Corregidor last June 2011. We called for a reservation and we were advised to be at the CCP Bay Terminal before 7 am (yes, it’s very early!) to secure a slot for that day’s tour (Recently though, they added an online booking feature in their website). And so we were there by 7 am… and they were still closed! Ugh. I hate waking up early, but I hate it more when it turns out that there was really no need to do so. The guard let us in a little past 7 am, but the staff arrived at around a quarter past. At around 8:20 am, they rounded up the passengers and took them to the dock area by a mini bus, which took all of 5 minutes. (The delay in the schedule might have been caused by the typhoon a few days prior to this trip. Tours were cancelled for a few days before our tour schedule.)

The ferry of Sun Cruises

At the dock area, they checked our tickets before letting us board the ferry. Inside, seats were pre-assigned and the passenger area was air-conditioned. During the trip, they played a documentary from the Department of Tourism that showcases different scenic sites of the Philippines. Hmm and also, a few people were not feeling very good (the waves were higher than usual because of a recent typhoon), so make sure to drink meds if you easily experience motion sickness.

Inside the ferry

We arrived in Corregidor at around 10:30 am (I think the journey should take around an hour and 15 minutes, but the strong waves made our trip longer) and were greeted by colorful tramvias that would take us around the island. That day, there were three vehicles available: two for English-speaking tourists and one for Japanese speakers. We hopped on one tramvia and were easily captivated by the stories of Sir Armando, our tour guide. He told us we would have a war memorial tour, and he proceeded to tell us about the structures and bombed areas in Corregidor, as well as the important events that occurred. The engrossing war stories and some bits of nice-to-know trivia here and there really made the ‘history lesson’ interesting. Oh, and there were a lot of monkeys in the island! We spotted some along the road.

We first visited the Battery Way (“battery” means a group of guns in an area) and the Topside Barracks during the first part of the tour while the guide told us about the modern (at the time) amenities that America built for the island, such as cinemas, swimming pool and other sports facilities, commissary, and hospital.

Battery Way

Inside the barrel

The Topside Barracks, almost a mile long, was the world’s longest military barracks at the time is was built. The US really invested in Corregidor!

Topside Barracks

We visited the Spanish Lighthouse next. The windows of the lighthouse were made of Capiz shells, similar to the rest of the buildings in the island. We were told that this is the reason why we couldn’t see any glass shards around the bombed buildings.

Spanish Lighthouse

After that, we visited the Flame of Freedom sculpture and the Pacific War Memorial dedicated to Filipino and American soldiers. Beside the memorial is the Memorial Museum, which houses photos, guns, model airplanes, and even money that were used during World War II.

Flame of Freedom

Pacific War Memorial

We then went to two more batteries, Battery Geary and Battery Crockett. Battery Geary was one of the worst-hit batteries in Corregidor since the Japanese air-raided it.

Battery Geary

Battery Crockett was the location of the ‘disappearing guns’. The giant guns required 30 men to service each weapon (talk about labor intensive!)

Disappearing gun at Battery Crockett

We had lunch at Corregidor Inn at around 1 pm. The buffet lunch was part of the tour package. The feast consisted of Filipino dishes, but the menu lacked seafood. We were told this is because Corregidor has its own power generator  so food preservation of seafood is not in their priority.

After lunch, we were brought to the Filipino Heroes Memorial. It consists of bronze wall sculptures of major uprisings and revolutions in Philippine History, from the Battle of Mactan in the 1500s to the Edsa Revolution in 1986.

Filipino Heroes Memorial

The epitaph says that it was “dedicated to the Filipino who knows how to die for love of freedom and liberty.” There was also a monument for the two presidents (Quezon and Osmena) during the American colonization, as well as a statue dedicated to the Filipino Woman.

"Dedicated to the Filipino who knows how to die for love of freedom and liberty"

"We shall not forget"

We then went to the Mindanao Garden of Peace, which was dedicated to the Moro youth victims of the Jabidah Massacre in Corregidor in 1968.

Mindanao Garden of Peace

The next stop was the Japanese War Memorial. Most of the structures built after the war were for Filipino and American soldiers, but this area is a “Tribute to the Brave Japanese” (though the word Japanese was scraped off by an angry American war veteran, or at least that was what we were told).

Dedicated to the brave -----

The last part of our tour was the Malinta Tunnel Light and Sound Show. It costs an extra Php 150 per person, but I think anybody interested in Corregidor war history should not miss it.

Malinta Tunnel Light and Sound Show

Malinta Tunnel is a bombproof shelter that protected Americans and Filipinos during the Japanese air raids. However, the tunnel was only bomb-proof from the outside. Parts of the tunnel were destroyed when the Japanese soldiers bombed themselves inside before they can be captured by the Americans.

The day tour ended at around 3:30 pm, and the other tourists took the ferry back to Manila.

Since we were staying overnight, we checked in at the hotel after the tour. Our tour guide joked that it is the only 31-star hotel (uh… each of the 31 rooms is a one-star accommodation? ) The amenities are basic (airconditioned but no TV), but the rooms are generally clean. They also have a swimming pool.

The 2nd floor corridor (NOT the Malinta tunnel :p)

Standard Room at Corregidor Inn

We realized that there were one or two more inns in the island with cheaper rates, and camping in the island is also allowed for Php 50 per person. However, the hotel accommodation included sunset tour and ‘ghost hunting’ in the hospital and Malinta Tunnel in the late afternoon, and a sunrise viewing tour and exploration of Japanese Tunnels in the early morning.

Just before the sun set, a guide brought us (at the time, the hotel only had four guests, I think it was because of the typhoon that just passed) to the western end of the island for the guided tour. We visited the hospital first. For me, this was one of the creepiest part of the tour. The big empty rooms and the dusk make for a good horror ambience. It was eerily silent and the only sounds we heard were our own voices.

Hospital ruins

We also went to Battery Grubbs, which also has disappearing guns. We tried to explore the destroyed buildings on the other side of it, but we only got to the entrance, cowards that we were haha. The place gave me the creeps, with the encroaching vegetation and being reminded of the fact that several soldiers died there.

We did not dare enter. hehe

We waited there for the sunset. Unfortunately, it was too cloudy (as I said, the typhoon just came), so no beautiful sunset for us

Sunset with no visible sun

When it became dark, we proceeded to the Malinta Tunnel. We were made to wear hard hats and they gave each of us a flashlight. We explored the lateral tunnels (only the main tunnel was accessed in the day time), and our guide led us to the ruined areas where the Japanese soldiers were said to have bombed themselves rather than surrender. We got to see the backstage control room of the Lights and Sounds Show, some of the rooms of the military officers, the hospital wing, and other interesting parts of the tunnel. There was one part where the guide showed us a charred human bone. We also found some interesting animals inside the tunnel like the crab, hermit crab, and tuko (gecko).

Charred human bone

Creepy crawlers in the Malinta Tunnel

We were also made to walk in total darkness, and we ended up bumping into each other before the exercise was over. The entire experience was pretty cool. Of course we didn’t see any ghosts (nor did we expect to), but there were some moments when I felt a little spooked out (but only a little! :p)

The next morning, we had to wake up before 5 am to catch the sunrise, but the sun was still elusive (boo!). After the failed sunrise viewing, we took a short hike to visit the ruins of the commissary and then went inside the Japanese tunnels. The tunnels were built by the Japanese when they occupied the island. They were not cemented like the Malinta Tunnel. They were just small tunnels dug in the clayey soil, just big enough for one man (or woman) to pass through. The tunnels reminded me of the small-scale mine tunnels that I usually see during my fieldwork.

Havaianas: not for hiking!

Oh, and because I did not bring shoes, my sandals gave up on me while we were walking in the clayey soil. Fortunately, I was with my Macgyver, who fixed my slippers with a coconut leaf! I had to buy slippers at the hotel after that. So if you ever visit Corregidor for an overnight stay, wear shoes!

After the tour, we had lunch at the hotel along with the day tour participants of that day, and then after lunch the hotel car brought us to the dock. The last statue that I saw before we went back to Manila was that of General Douglas MacArthur with his famous words, “I shall return.” And indeed, I shall! (Hopefully with a bike and a tent next time )

Puerto Princesa on a budget: backpacking advice from a local lakwatsera

Puerto Princesa — one of the cleanest and greenest cities in the Philippines, dubbed as The City in a Forest. It is home to the famous Underground River, to the beautiful islands of Honda Bay, and to a lot of other unique and wonderful sights. And of course, let’s not forget it’s my home town

It’s a famous tourist destination among locals and foreigners alike. The only problem is that visiting the sights can sometimes get too costly. (Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for supporting the thriving tourism industry in Puerto Princesa. If you like to relax and travel in comfort, please visit this site for a list of travel agents (or you can contact Tandikan Travel and Tours by email at tandikantours@yahoo.com or via +63999-199-3626 – I know the owner personally).  Although the prices for the tour packages are reasonable and the tours are more comfortable and hassle-free, a cheaper alternative is to do it the backpacker way. Of course this means roughing it out! I will give an ideal itinerary for visiting the famous tourist destinations and try to give some advice (based on personal experience from bringing visitors to the tourist sites) on how to save by doing the tours on your own.

First, let’s get you there. Major local airlines such as Philippine Airlines, Airphil Express, Cebu Pacific, and Zest Air each fly to Puerto Princesa twice a day from Manila, so that’s 8 round trip flights a day. Cebu Pacific also flies to Puerto Princesa from Cebu. You can also take a ferry from Manila via Superferry or Negros Navigation (seasonal voyages). Feel free to choose

Next, you should book your hotel or pension or resort, whichever is right for your budget and needs. You can choose where you want to stay in this site.

How long should you stay in Puerto Princesa? Well, you of course want to make the most of your time there, so I would say you need at least three full days (on a tight schedule), but four days would be just right. Below is an ideal itinerary, including the comparison of getting the tour package and “doing-it-yourself”:

Day 1- City Tour

It is better to have a morning flight so you have more time for touring the city.

> If you got the City Tour Package from a travel agent, you will be toured using an aircon van with a licensed tour guide. Your destinations more or less include: Crocodile Farm, Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm, Binuatan Creations, Rancho Sta. Monica, Butterfly Garden, Baywalk, Plaza Cuartel and Cathedral. City Tour Package: Php 600/person

> However, you can also opt to do the tour by yourself. There are several ways of doing this, depending on how many you are in the group. If you are in a group of two to four, you can hire a tricycle (serves as the taxi in the city, only it’s three-wheeled) for half the day for Php 500 to 700. If you are in a group of five to ten, you can hire a multicab for 800 to 1,000, depending on your bargaining powers (multicabs are like small jeepneys that accommodate 10-12 persons). If you are in a group of ten or more, renting a van is a better option (Php 1000-1500, refer to the link of tour companies, they also offer van rental services).

If you are adventurous enough and are not afraid to get lost, you can also rent a motorcycle and roam around by yourself. Rates are at Php 50 per hour or Php 500 per day. The motorbikes for rent are just beside the airport exit gate.

If you are alone or in a group of 2, you can choose to use public transport, the DIY Price is Php~200/person for combined tricycle/multicab fares. Here is my suggested route:

- Binuatan Creations: If your hotel is in the city proper, take a tricycle (Php 8 per person within the city proper) to Rizal Avenue, preferably at Jollibee and ride the multicab with the route “Pajara-Sta. Monica-Bunkhouse”. It is better to sit near the driver so you can tell him to drop you off at PPSAT (Puerto Princesa School of Arts and Trade), at the road to Employees Village (fare Php 12 to 15 . From there, you can walk to Binuatan Creations (it is a bit far, though, about a block or two from the main road), or if you have Php 8 to spare you can ride a tricycle. Don’t be afraid to ask for directions if you are unsure

(photo from their website)

Binuatan Creations is a place where you can experience making handloom woven mats using indigenous plant fibers. Their products are world-class exports and you can buy these native products at the source. You can click here for their contact information.

- Butterfly Garden. After the handicrafts, you can return to the main highway (walk or take the tricycle) where you were first dropped off. From there, take the multicab with the same route “Pajara-Sta. Monica-Bunkhouse” and tell the driver to drop you off at Butterfly Garden (fare Php 8; Entrance fee Php 50).

Butterfly Garden is a place where you can observe and interact with different species of butterflies as well as flowering plants. If you are lucky, you can see butterflies emerging from their pupae (yey!). Aside from butterflies, they also have a small collection of insects and reptiles.

From pupae to butterflies. Watch the magic unfold at the Butterfly Garden!

- Baker’s Hill. After butterfly garden, you can walk to the main highway (about 100 meters away) and ride the tricycles idling there to Baker’s Hill (fare is Php 10 per person or Php 20 if they take you there alone; Free entrance).

Baker’s Hill is a bakery/restaurant with a very nice mini park. You can have some snacks while enjoying the landscape. It is a pretty famous dating spot for locals The bakery’s specialties are the Hopia Ube and Hopia Baboy.

- Mitra Ranch. You can climb to this next destination if you are up for it, but tricycles are waiting just outside Baker’s Hill to take you to the Rancho (fare Php 8 to Php 10; Free entrance).

The Ranch is owned by the governor of Palawan, and provides a nice view of the city. Recently, they added the Rancho Zipline, which costs Php 500 for 3 lines and boasts of a 360-degree flip at the end.

- Crocodile Farm (aka Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center). You can walk back to the main highway or take a tricycle (Php 10). On the main highway, take a multicab with the route “Irawan”, and tell the driver to bring you to Crocodile Farm (fare Php 10 to 12; Entrance fee Php 40).

The crocodile farm has, of course, lots of crocodiles! You can even have your photo taken while holding a live baby crocodile. They also have a park which feature Palawan’s endemic species such as the Palawan Bear Cat, bearded pig, mynah and other exotic animals.

- Plaza Cuartel – Cathedral – Baywalk. From the crocodile farm, you can take a multicab back to the city (Fare Php 18 to 20). Tell the driver to bring you to the Cathedral (it is usually the end of their route).

*You can also visit this last part after the Underground River or Honda Bay Tour, it is within the city and the fare only costs Php 8 by tricycle if you come from anywhere in the city proper.

The Plaza Cuartel is very near the cathedral’s main entrance. It used to be known as “Lover’s Park” for local teenagers (during my teen years, anyway). It used to be a Japanese garrison during WWII, and is now a memorial park for war victims. From the Cathedral, you can take a tricycle to Baywalk (Php 8) or walk the 3-4 blocks if you still have the energy. The Baywalk is now a popular place to stroll, bike (available for rent), try street food while enjoying the view of Puerto Princesa Bay.

The peacock is the symbol of Puerto Princesa, and is incorporated in the design of the Baywalk

Optional destinations (i.e. not part of the DIY Price computation):

- Iwahig Firefly Watching. This is an option if you still have the energy (and money) in the early evening. Or do this after the island hopping or the Underground River Tour the next day. You can hire a tricycle or multicab to take you to Iwahig and wait for you until you finish (about Php 300-600 for a tricycle OR you can include this in your itinerary if you hired a vehicle for the day and prepare to add a small amount to the quoted fees above). A small boat for 2-4 persons costs Php 600, and a guide will row the boat for you. Remember to bring some snacks since you will have to spend until dinnertime in Iwahig.

DIY Price: Php 600/2-4 persons + vehicle rental

Tour Package: Php 1,100 (includes van transfers, shed rental, boat rental, tour guide, DINNER at the site)

- Sta. Lourdes Hot Spring. If you have more time to spare, you can spend an hour or two relaxing in the hot spring pools in Sta. Lourdes. The place is out of the way from most of the destinations I indicated above, and is much closer to Honda Bay and along the way to Underground River. But if you have the means (hired vehicle), soaking in the hot water pools can also be a good way to relax. The rental is on a per pool basis. Rates vary from Php 350-1000 per pool, depending on size and on how fancy the resort is (the hot spring resorts are just beside each other).

Day 2 – Underground River (I have a separate blog post on this, just click on this link)

> Tour Package: Php1,500/person (details on my other blog entry)

> DIY Price: Php750-900/person  (details on my other blog entry)

Day 3 – Honda Bay Island Hopping

> Tour Package: Php 1,100/person including airconditioned van transfer, licensed tour guide, picnic lunch, entrance fees

*If you came alone or as a couple, it might be better to avail of the tour package (as you will see when I discuss the commute option)

> Doing it yourself:

First things first. You need to be prepared for the tour.

1. Buy lunch/snacks at the city proper if you want to save on food costs (They offer fresh seafoods that they can cook for you at Snake Island *about Php 150-500* but other islands don’t have much to offer).

2. If you have a snorkel set, you can save Php 100 for the rental (you need it to enjoy the amazing beauty hidden underwater!).

Then, you need to get to Honda Bay, which is a thirty- to forty-minute ride from the city proper. There are a few multicabs that ply the “City Proper-Honda Bay Sta. Lourdes” route (fare Php 20 to 25), but then you might have a problem getting a ride back to the city after. If there are no multicabs or tricycles waiting, you need to walk about 1.5 kilometers to the main highway and try your luck getting a tricycle or van to take you to the city (chances are slim, though).

A better solution is to hire a tricycle (for 2 to 5 persons; Php 300 to 500) or a multicab (for 6 to 10 persons; Php 1000 or more) for round trip service that will take you to Honda Bay AND return for you in the afternoon to bring you back to the city.

When you arrive in Honda Bay, proceed to the Tourist Information Office and rent a boat. The rates are standard: Php 1300 or Php 1600 (the rate depends on the motor power) for one motorized boat good for 6 persons, plus Php 220 for any additional person. You also need to pay the terminal fee, which is just Php 18 per person. Note that you can share the boat with other tourists, if you find shoestring travelers like you in small groups also looking to rent a boat. It’s a good way to make new friends! 

Oh, and buy lots of stale bread before you go off to the islands. It’s really fun to feed the fishies!

You can have your pick of the islands to visit, and each island has their corresponding entrance fee (ranging from 25 to 100 Php) that you can check out when you get there.

Personally, I recommend:

- Snake Island (free entrance; cottage rental Php 50) – The island boasts of a long stretch of white sand. It is named after its long snakelike shape.

Strolling the long stretch of white sand with the resident island dog

A sari-sari store in the island sells snacks, drinks, fresh buko juice, and fresh seafood that they can cook for your lunch (Php ~150-500). But the best part of this island is underwater.  There are literally A LOT of fishes in this sea You can feed them bread (which you can buy at the port where you paid for your rent) so they will swarm around you.

- Starfish Island (entrance Php 50) – As the name implies, there are a lot of starfishes!

But more than that, the best part of this island is also underwater. You can ask your boatman to take you snorkeling near the shore.

- Pambato Reef (Php 50 for snorkelers) – This is just a floating hut in the middle of the sea, but the coral formations there are the best in Honda Bay and even in Puerto Princesa. One tip: the waves are stronger in the afternoon so it is better to visit Pambato Reef early. Just ask your boatmen for their advice.

Other islands that you can visit include Pandan Island, Lu-li (lulubog-lilitaw) Island, and Cowrie Island.

DIY Price: Php 1800 for 4-5 persons + 200/person for entrance fees (lunch not included)

Day 4 - Dolphin Watching (my blog post about this experience can be found here)

This tour is ideal on the day of an afternoon return flight, as the tour is usually done before 11 am.

Excerpt from the blog: If you want to see the spinner dolphins swim, play and do somersaults,  just show up at the Baywalk of Puerto Princesa at around 6 am and look for the boats along the bay (we paid Php 700/person at that time). However, this method might not be reliable as you cannot be guaranteed a space in the boat if you did not talk to them ahead of time, so it might be better to contact a travel agency (Tour Package rate: Php 900/person).

There you go! I hope the information above can help you enjoy Puerto Princesa, whether you choose to avail of the tour packages or to tour around on your own. Have a great time!

P.S. I am also including a list of my recommended restaurants in the city. To reach these restaurants, just take a tricycle from anywhere in the city center (Php 8 per person) and tell them the restaurant name. Prices quoted are estimated on a per person basis.

> Ka Lui (Rizal Ave) – offers delicious Filipino food with a very “native” ambience. It is a bit pricey, but the food is really good. (Php 250-500)

> Chicken Inato (Manalo St) – their specialty is chicken barbeque that is very, very tasty (Php 100-200)

> Balinsasayaw (Rizal Ave) – this restaurant also offers chicken barbeque as their specialty, but they have a variety of Filipino dishes as well (Php 60-300)

> Neva’s Place (Taft St, beside Children’s Park) – This is a pizza and pasta place with very great ambience and good food (Php 70-250)

> Bona’s Chaolongan – Vietnamese dishes are very popular in Puerto Princesa from when the Vietnamese refugees came to Palawan. This restaurant has been a favorite for local students because of the price AND the taste. (Try the beef stew noodle with garlic french bread!) BUT if you are particular about ambience, I suggest you go to a fancier Vietnamese restaurant (Price Range 50-100)

> Rene’s Saigon – This place is the “fancier” Vietnamese restaurant, and also serves good food. *This place is a little far from the city center, farther than the airport so the far is a peso or two higher.

Yum yum!

> Kinabuch’s – This is more of a dinner/after-dinner place where you can chill and have a beer while trying Palawan’s exotic dishes such as tamilok(mangrove worm) or crocodile meat.

Tamilok (worm from mangroves). Best eaten fresh, and with beer

> Kamarikutan Kape at Galeri – This is a coffee shop with a very nice ambience.

> Itoy’s Coffee Haus – The more popular coffee place since it is located in the city center

>> There are also fast foods like Jollibee, Chow King, Shakey’s for on-the-go meals.

Just don’t forget to try chao long, french bread, tamilok and croc meat and of course, lots an lots of fresh seafood!

***Oh, and the souvenirs! The cheapest souvenirs can be bought in the Pasalubong Center or at the souvenir shop just beside the airport. Typical food souvenirs include cashew, dried fish/squid/tahong, spicy dilis, hopia (from Baker’s Hill). For souvenirs that last longer, you can buy the rainmaker, cultured pearls, and assorted knickknacks of native products.

Oktoberfest 2011 in Fukuoka: My Japanese-German party experience

Because Japanese people love drinking, it’s no surprise that the German Oktoberfest has found its way to Japan. In Fukuoka, the Oktoberfest has been an annual event for a few years now, usually held during the last week of October.[click here for official Japanese event page]

This 2011, my lab mates and I decided to check out the Fukuoka Oktoberfest on a Monday night to chill out from our research (our excuse to drink). The venue was in Reizen Park, so we took the train to Nakasu Kawabata Station. We arrived there at around six in the evening and walked a block or two to the park.

When we arrived, the first thing that caught my attention was the merry-go-round at the entrance. I found it amusing that there was a lone amusement ride amidst the food and drink stalls.

We were greeted by the welcome sign and some Japanese ushers who handed each of us a sheet of yellow paper with the venue map and song lyrics, which proved to be very useful after a few beers. But more on that later.

The first thing we did was to look for, of course, German beer! There were several choices but Loren, my Filipina friend who came with us, and I chose the stall with the nice German lady smiling at us. We asked her to choose our drink for us, since we did not know what the different beers were anyway. We were surprised when she replied to us in Filipino! She speaks a little Filipino, with very good Japanese, English, and of course, German Very cool!

She also explained that we had to pay 1,000 yen more for the ‘glass deposit’. She said that after we finish with the glass, we just have to surrender it at the next stall for our next beer, and they will replace it with another glass. At the end of the night, we just returned the glass to the designated area to get our 1,000 yen back. The biggest glass available was 500 mL.

Since it was dinnertime, we also looked for food to accompany the beer. There were several stalls selling sausages, fries, pizza, popcorn, pretzels (in short, food not usually served in a Japanese restaurant/cafeteria). We got German sausages with mashed potato to really take in the ‘German’ atmosphere.

There was a little rain, so we brought our food and drinks inside the tent. The tent was relatively big and because we came early, we got a whole long table to ourselves. My labmates ordered different kinds of beer so we got to taste the different types of German beer available. This also gave us an idea which type of beer to try next.

There was a three-man German  band (2 guitars and an accordion) who performed twice that night. Every 15 minutes or so, they enjoined everybody to sing the traditional German toast song ‘Ein Prosit’ and then toast. The lyrics to the song was in the yellow flyer that they gave us when we entered.

At first we were just observing other people do it, but after downing about 3 different beers, we were singing along and shouting ‘Prost!’, toasting in German at the top of our voices.

As the night continued and people became more intoxicated, the party got more interesting. As the band played German songs, people started to dance in front of the stage to songs they couldn’t even understand They also made a dancing train line that went from the stage to the back of the tent. People were high-fiving each other and jumping up and down while waving German flags. Of course, we joined in on the fun! It was a crazy, fun-filled night. After the singing, dancing and shouting, we got ready to go home since the event closes at 10 in the evening every night (too early! but this is probably wise to avoid people from getting too drunk).

To cap off the night, some of my labmates rode the merry-go-round. I did not think the alcohol in my system would agree to going round and round in circles, so I passed on that and amused myself watching them and taking pictures.

We walked back to the train station and went home with a few drunk friends, and happy memories of loudly singing ‘Ein Prosit’ and shouting ‘Prost!’. It was one of the best Monday nights ever, partying the Japanese-German(?) way!

Stonehenge: visiting a childhood fascination

One of my favorite book topics as a young adult was of unexplained phenomena. I would usually go to the library (oops, nerd confession!) to read about and ponder on UFOs, Easter Island, fairies, and the like. Stonehenge was one of these “mysterious” places that has kept me fascinated while staring at the book illustrations.

I never thought the day would come, but I finally had the chance to see it in person. I went to the UK to attend a conference, and to visit my relatives at the same time. On the morning of my arrival, my aunt and uncle picked me up from Heathrow Airport and brought me to their home in Southampton (about 2 hours from the airport). I got excited when they told me they planned to bring me to see Stonehenge that very day. Of course I had no complaints, never mind that I have been traveling for 27 hours before I arrived  I only had a week in the UK so that time should be spent wisely. So I just had breakfast and a shower at my aunt’s place and then my uncle drove us to Wiltshire, where Stonehenge is located.

Stonehenge seemed to be in the middle of nowhere (information on how to get to the monument can be found here). One moment we were driving along green grass fields with grazing sheep, and the next moment I can see the stone monument! I felt excited as i caught sight of the stone circle but since we were in the car, I lost my view of it shortly after we drove past. We drove to the parking area and paid 7.50 GBP at the entrance gate, where they provided complementary audio guides.We had to go through a sort-of tunnel to reach the location of the stone monument. When I emerged from the tunnel and saw the Stonehenge Monument, excitement filled me again. I even forgot that I was feeling cold from the strong wind. It was really true, the Stonehenge Monument was really in front of me. While I was approaching it, I was remembering all those things I read from the books. I was marveling at the fact that man can put together a monument like this. I was actually trying to figure out how they managed to bring the heavy bluestones to the site, place the stones in an upright position, and place the stone blocks on top of the upright stones, but I just couldn’t imagine how. It was really an impressive sight up close.

Well, actually it was not THAT close. We couldn’t really go near the stones and walk inside it. They put up ropes to prevent people from coming close to the stone circle. As we walked around it, our distance from the Stonehenge seems to increase. Of course, since we couldn’t go near it, we just took a lot of photos with me in it! Haha. It was a good thing I was with my aunt who was playing tour guide, as she happily snapped photos of me with the Stonehenge in the background.

I also noticed some tourists posing for pictures outside the fence. The 7.50 pounds for the entrance fee might be too much for  some, or they just refuse to enter since they couldn’t touch it or go near it anyway.

After circling around the Stonehenge monument, we went inside the visitor shop for some souvenirs. The shop has everything, from posters to chocolates and even sheep stuffed toys. I bought several postcards and some gifts for family and friends.

I felt really happy that I got to see “THE” Stonehenge. I was really thankful (especially to my relatives!) that I had the chance to visit a place that I thought I can only ponder about while reading in the library. What I thought were stupid childhood wishes can come true after all

Roughing it out: A backpacker’s guide to the Puerto Princesa Underground River

The Underground River was just recently announced as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature. It  is reputed to be the longest navigable Underground River in the world. The Underground River is one of the must-see places in Puerto Princesa (1-hour plane ride from Manila). However, this natural wonder is far from the city center, and requires a full day to visit (it’s worth it, of course! You haven’t really gone to Puerto Princesa if you did not go to the Underground River…). It is located in Sabang, a good 2- to 2.5-hour trip.

A lot of tourists choose tour packages available from local tour companies. The rates are uniform all over the city, since the local government are overseeing the tour companies and tour guides. If you want to visit the Underground River without worrying about the logistics, you can of course sign up for a tour package with any of the local tour companies. The tour usually costs Php 1,500 (35 USD). This includes air-conditioned van transfer, motorized boat transfer, beach cottage rental, picnic lunch, permits and entrance fees, licensed tour guide. You can also choose to rent your own van for 3,500 Php (80 USD), if you want to go at your own pace (and if you can afford it).

The tour packages only allow for a day’s trip to Sabang. There are a lot more sites to see and things to do in the area. Commuting is ideal for those who want to stay overnight in Sabang, since you can choose your own pace and not rely on the schedule of the tour packages. Also, the price for the tour can sometimes be a little steep for some local tourists. But more than the price, some people prefer to be adventurous. A little more comfort is good for some, but others prefer to rough it out, just because it’s more fun. Being a local from Puerto Princesa, I have been to the Underground River about 4 or 5 times by commute. I think it’s more exciting that way.

So if you want a little more adventure, here are detailed instructions for an Underground River trip, backpacker style <Of course, this guide assumes you are already in Puerto Princesa and have reserved at least a day to visit the Underground River.>

1. SECURING A PERMIT: ONE DAY BEFORE your trip, you need to get a permit at the Underground River Booking Office. From wherever you are in Puerto Princesa City, you can ride the city’s unique tricycle (Minimum Fare: 8 Php/person) and tell the driver to bring you to the Underground River Office (Exact address: No. 350 Rizal Avenue, Brgy. Bancao Bancao, Puerto Princesa City; Telefax 048-434-2509; Email: info@puerto-undergroundriver.com). You need to pay 275.00 park fee/person if you are aged 21 and above.  Getting the permit a day early is important to ensure that you can be scheduled to go inside the cave at the earliest possible time (yes, there are that many visitors ). You can ditch this first step if you plan to spend more than two days in Sabang (the area where Underground River is located) since you will have more time when you are there.
*UPDATE: The number of tourists have been increasing, so the local government advises tourists to secure the permits two weeks or even a month before their trip (see news article here). Look for a local from Puerto Princesa to book it for you, otherwise you might need to ask the help of a travel agent.

2. GOING TO THE TERMINAL : On the day itself, you should take the multicab or tricycle to San Jose New Market. This trip will take around 10-15 minutes. The multicab fare is 12 Php from the Rizal Avenue, but the availability depends on the time of day. They might not be available early in the morning. The tricycle fare is more flexible since it’s like a taxi on three wheels. The price you pay depends on your haggling skills. It can range from 20 Php to 60 Php

3. TRANSPORT TO SABANG: At the San Jose New Market, look for the terminal of D’Christ jeepneys/buses. Here are the trip schedule from Puerto Princesa to Sabang: 7:00 am, 9:00 am, 12:00 nn, 2:00 pm. Remember that these jeepneys/buses are the only means of public transportation. You should try to be there early to get a good seat. The jeepneys/buses will not reject passengers, no matter how full they are. That means a passenger can ride on the roof or stand on the door and even on the windows of the jeepney if there is no more available space inside. It’s a helluva crazy ride Be prepared to ride with sacks of rice, blocks of ice, fruits and vegetables, bamboo poles… well, you get the idea (or maybe you won’t until you actually ride it). It takes 2 or more hours to get to Sabang, depending on the stops the jeepneys/buses have to take to deliver the produce to the areas along the way. Fare: 125 Php for locals (Filipinos), 200 Php for foreigners.

4. ARRIVAL AT SABANG PORT: Upon arrival, proceed to the Underground River Office with your permit from the day before.

If you did not register at the city proper, you can register here but you might be scheduled to enter the cave at a much later time, and your day would be wasted from waiting in line. There are two options after this, either you take the 1.5-3 hour hike using the 5.3-km monkey/jungle trail, or hire a boat for a 20-minute ride to the cave. The hike is of course for free, plus you can enjoy the jungle scenery with the monkeys and monitor lizards. (Be careful not to have any plastic bags on sight as the clever monkeys will surely snatch them!)The hike is however not for people who are pressed for time, since you also have to use this way going back. On the other hand, hiring a boat would cost 700 Php round-trip (the same boat will take you back to the Sabang Port). You can easily look for other tourists who would be more than willing to share the boat ride with you. One boat can have up to 6 passengers, so you can spend as low as 120 Php for the round-trip boat ride.

5. ENTERING THE CAVE: Upon arrival at the cave entrance of the Underground River (if you take the boat, you will be brought to the beach and you have to walk a little part of the monkey trail), you should immediately go to the cottage by the shore and look for the person-in-charge. The line could be really long so you should try to move fast to overtake as many people as possible Write your name in the logbook and wait for your name to be called. While waiting, make sure you take a picture of the cave’s mouth, it’s a famous postcard scenery When your name is called, you will ride the small 12-man paddle boat, and the boatman will take you to the pitch-black cave with wonderful stalactite/stalagmite formations. *Tips: 1. Try to sit in front and be the person holding the flash light for the best cave experience; 2. Listen carefully to enjoy the boatman’s jokes!*

6. GOING BACK: After this, you go back to the Sabang Wharf (either by boat or by the monkey trail). Depending on your itinerary, you should try to catch the scheduled trips from Sabang Port back to Puerto Princesa city proper: 7:00 am, 9:00 am, 12:00 nn, 2:00 pm (Fare: 120 Php). Take note that the last trip at 2:00 pm makes your visit short! You also have the option of trying to ride the air-conditioned vans that cater to the group tours. Just go to the parking area and try to ask if extra seats are available in the vans. They usually charge 150-200 Php per person for the fare back to Puerto Princesa city proper.

Extras: SABANG BEACH: While waiting for the scheduled trip back to Puerto Princesa, you can relax and enjoy the white-sand beach.

There are beach-front resorts where you can rent a cottage and order seafood delicacies for lunch, but be prepared to pay from 250-500 Php per head. You can, however, choose to eat lunch at the carinderia or the restaurant stalls near the port for a cheap meal (50-80 Php). If you want to spend the night at Sabang Beach, you can inquire at the beach-front cottages for vacant rooms. The rooms will range from 350 Php (non-aircon nipa huts with common bathroom, make sure to ask for mosquito nets!) to 1,500 Php (air-conditioned rooms). There are fancy hotels too, but this will defeat the purpose of your adventure trip, wouldn’t it?

OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN SABANG: If you decide to spend the night in Sabang and you have some time to spare, you can ask the Underground River Office for information on the: mangrove paddle-boat tour, bird-watching, Sabang Waterfalls, Ugong Rock Adventure.

If you choose this backpacker-style trip to the Underground River, you need to prepare ~750-900 Php (20 USD). Add a little more (400-1500 Php) if you are staying overnight. I hope this blog entry helps, and I wish you will have a pleasant visit to the Underground River, whether you choose the comfortable package tour or the adventurous commute.

Top 10 Reasons why Dazaifu is my favorite day trip destination

I recently realized that if I have friends visiting Fukuoka for sightseeing, I wouldn’t let them miss Dazaifu. It’s the perfect place for a day trip from Fukuoka. You ask why? Well, why not? Let me give you my top 10 reasons: 1. Getting there. Dazaifu is just a short train ride away from Fukuoka’s city center. Unlike other destinations that would take an hour or two, Dazaifu is a convenient 20-minute train ride from Tenjin (Fukuoka’s center). Just look for the Nishitetsu Tenjin Train Station and buy a ticket to Dazaifu for 390 yen. Don’t forget to change trains at Futsukaichi station and make sure to board the correct train going to Dazaifu! (We made the mistake of just boarding the nearest train without reading and it cost us precious time.) When in doubt, ask! Don’t be afraid if they don’t speak English, just ask “Dazaifu?” and they will (hopefully) understand … 2. Accessibility. Every destination in Dazaifu is walking distance! The tourist sites are very near each other. They have complete directions and signs that walking tourists can easily follow. 3. Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine. This is one of the most important shrines dedicated to Sugawara Michizane’s spirit, a well-known scholar of the Heian Period. He died in Dazaifu and the shrine was built on the site of his grave.This shrine is associated with the Shinto deity for education, so students often come here to pray for  exams, studies and other academic-related requests. The shrine is quite popular, especially among students taking entrance examinations.

Near the main hall, there are several good luck charms for almost anything, mayit be for love, health, wealth, safety and of course, for studies.

4. The plum trees. Plum trees are abundant (if 6000 trees are abundant enough for you) in and around the shrine. The plum is Mishizane’s favorite tree. Just before the sakura, the plum trees bloom here around mid-March. Seeing the ume (Japanese word for plum) flowers is really a treat!

5. Kyushu National Museum. It opened just last 2005, and is Japan’s fourth and latest National Museum (the other three in Tokyo, Kyoto and Nara were opened 2 centuries ago) . The unique architecture is a pretty cool, not that I’m any expert. I just love the way it looks: different. The big infrastructure should look out of place in such a small and traditional-feel place, but it works for me. The exhibits are also pretty interesting, a very good lesson in Asian history. There are some volunteer guides just standing around the exhibits, waiting for clueless-looking tourists. The guides are mostly old Japanese folks who wish to practice their English, and they’re a good source of insider information. The entrance fees to the museum are reasonable, only 420 yen for adults. Students only need to pay 130 yen, and Kyushu Unniversity students can enter for free (Yey! Just don’t forget to bring your ID card). 6. Komyozenji temple. This is a zen temple with two wonderful gardens. At the entrance of the temple premises is the front garden that consists of raked pebbles with large rocks laid out. The rocks are said to form the kanji for ‘light’. A 200 yen entrance fee is required to enter the temple, though there is nobody to give the money to. The honesty system is being implemented, with only a small wooden box asking silently for the entrance fees. The garden at the back of the temple is quite a sight. The trees and the raked pebbles all add up to give an impression of serenity. The garden felt so quiet and peaceful that I had the impulse to sit and meditate. It’s as Zen as any garden can get. 7. Mt. Homan. This is one of the most popular mountains to climb in Fukuoka. It is a 20-minute bus ride or an hour’s walk from the Dazaifu train station. It is around 800 meters high and only takes 2 hours to climb, though it is a bit steep. But if young kids and old ladies can climb it, I’m sure it’s not that hard for the average tourist The path to the top is built with steps made from rocks (which I personally do not prefer, but hey I’m not complaining) to make it easier to climb. The mountain is also filled with trees so the sun could hardly penetrate through the tree canopy, making the ascent very comfortable. There are some technical parts near the summit, where you have to use ropes and ladders to climb, which adds to the trail’s appeal. My favorite part (as in any climb)is the summit. It is a nice place to relax and enjoy the view of the plains below. 8. The shopping street. The souvenir shops lining the main street leading to the Tenmangu Shrine is really a feast for the eyes. The goods being sold range from Japanese souvenir items to native delicacies. Most of the food being sold can be tasted for free (this is one of the best parts of buying food souvenirs: free taste!). The shopping street leading to the shrine depicts the typical shopping street near a major tourist attraction all over Japan, but I haven’t seen any street like this anywhere else in Fukuoka. 9. Umegai-mochi. This dessert is a signature delicacy of Dazaifu. There are a number of shops in the shopping street that specializes in this dessert (always try to look for the shop with the longest line, and you’ll know where the best umegai-mochi is sold). It can be a little hypnotizing to watch the cooks prepare the mochi with their special machines. The umegai-mochi consists of mochi (pounded glutinous rice) with bean paste inside. I am not a big fan of beans, but I can tolerate this dessert, because the mochi is really good, especially when it is hot (they give it to you hot!). 10. The largest Totoro stuffed toy I can ever hug! It’s located in one of the souvenir shops in the shopping street, just waiting to be hugged! So kawaaaaiii! Dazaifu has all the elements that traditional Japan has to offer. It has that small Japanese town appeal, and offers an interesting lesson in Japanese culture and history.  The stuff I listed are just my favorites, but this is not all that Dazaifu has to offer. There are more sights to visit (like the Kanzoenji Temple and the Government Ruins, although these sites are a kilometer or two away from the main station) and more stuff to discover about Dazaifu, and I intend to go back for another day trip soon